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please help because my charger is rated @ 0.1A which means 100mA only? (wth) I googled and found out that 700mA is the oem batt charger for xperia x1 some use 1A others 1.5A please help thanks. Cause I'm buying a new charger rated at 1A so it would charge faster
Yes, the higher the mA the more juice can be drawn from it.
Many people think that it means it will only put out that current, but current is drawn not pushed, and an electrical device will draw as much as it needs.
With a NiMH type rechargable battery, there's a simple formula to work out the charging time.
C is the capacity of the battery.
1.4C/mA
So a 1000mAH NiMH battery charged at 1000mA would take 1.4 hours to charge.
However, Lithium batteries are not simple to charge without blowing them up, hence the need for a charging circuit.
The charging circuit should take only as much current as it needs to charge the battery safely, so a 2A charger would probably be overkill although it would most likely enable you to run TomTom, Opera, and watch a movie while charging in the quickest possible time
If you're charging while using the device heavily (GPS/Wifi/3G browsing) then 1A charger would be better, but if you normally just leave the phone charging without using it then 600mA normally does the job.
i think 2A charger would kill the battery. Can you suggest a 1A charger OEM htc for my xperia x1? thanks
henryfranz2005 said:
i think 2A charger would kill the battery. Can you suggest a 1A charger OEM htc for my xperia x1? thanks
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Click to collapse
You've fallen for what I mentioned in my second sentance.
A 2A power supply does not only provide 2A, it provides anything up to 2A.
So if your phone only draws 1A, it will only provide 1A.
The phone is the charger, the thing we think of as the charger is actually just a power supply.
Unless someone has the spec sheets for the charging circuit in the phone, we don't know the maximum rate at which it will charge the battery.
One way to find out would be to discharge the battery to a level where the phone won't turn on, then without turning the phone on, set it charging.
Time how long it takes for the LED to turn green.
Divide 1230 by the time in hours that it took and you've got roughly the current drawn to charge it.
Say it takes 90 minutes with a 1A power supply, so that's a maximum charge rate of 800mA, so even if you connected it up to a 5A power supply, it will still only charge at 800mA.
So, you connect it up to your 1A power supply, that means with the phone on you've got a "spare" 200mA to play with.
If the phone isn't using more than 200mA to just "run" itself, then you'll charge a battery in the 90 minutes.
However, say you start your sat nav app, it draws 400mA (guess), the charging circuit drops to use only 600mA, taking longer to charge but allowing you to find where you're driving too.
While you're navigating to a restaurant, you want to phone ahead to confirm the reservation, so you open up Opera and search google with a 3G connection, that takes another 400mA (guess). The charging circuit now only has 200mA to use. Your battery isn't getting much charge.
Imagine using a 600mA power supply instead and you can see how you could get to the situation where despite being plugged in, your battery is running down.
I've used 400mA to demonstrate the impact, of course they real values are lower, otherwise you'd only get an hour's use out of having GPS and 3G enabled. Hmm, then again...
thanks for helping me here I decided that I would buy a new charger. (1A) because my charger is not drawing enough amperes (my charger is rated at 0.1A believe me. I thought I read the specs wrong. But it takes roughly 18 hrs to fully charge my battery.
I input my battery specs here http://www.csgnetwork.com/batterychgcalc.html
and yeah I think the computation is correct. Thanks SIR XACCERS
xaccers said:
You've fallen for what I mentioned in my second sentance.
A 2A power supply does not only provide 2A, it provides anything up to 2A.
So if your phone only draws 1A, it will only provide 1A.
The phone is the charger, the thing we think of as the charger is actually just a power supply.
Unless someone has the spec sheets for the charging circuit in the phone, we don't know the maximum rate at which it will charge the battery.
One way to find out would be to discharge the battery to a level where the phone won't turn on, then without turning the phone on, set it charging.
Time how long it takes for the LED to turn green.
Divide 1230 by the time in hours that it took and you've got roughly the current drawn to charge it.
Say it takes 90 minutes with a 1A power supply, so that's a maximum charge rate of 800mA, so even if you connected it up to a 5A power supply, it will still only charge at 800mA.
So, you connect it up to your 1A power supply, that means with the phone on you've got a "spare" 200mA to play with.
If the phone isn't using more than 200mA to just "run" itself, then you'll charge a battery in the 90 minutes.
However, say you start your sat nav app, it draws 400mA (guess), the charging circuit drops to use only 600mA, taking longer to charge but allowing you to find where you're driving too.
While you're navigating to a restaurant, you want to phone ahead to confirm the reservation, so you open up Opera and search google with a 3G connection, that takes another 400mA (guess). The charging circuit now only has 200mA to use. Your battery isn't getting much charge.
Imagine using a 600mA power supply instead and you can see how you could get to the situation where despite being plugged in, your battery is running down.
I've used 400mA to demonstrate the impact, of course they real values are lower, otherwise you'd only get an hour's use out of having GPS and 3G enabled. Hmm, then again...
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Click to collapse
you're correct sir. It would take 90MINUTES to charge my phone using 1A
you're so cool sir
henryfranz2005 said:
you're correct sir. It would take 90MINUTES to charge my phone using 1A
you're so cool sir
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Click to collapse
Happy to have enlightened
Just wish I could have been more helpful in suggesting which to buy.
Just be careful in using a charger with high Amp rating. I have 2 chargers- 1 charges my phone in more or less an hour, the other in almost half a day (so I don't use it).
One time, my battery got drained, so no problem, I plugged it in to charge. To my horror, it wasn't charging (no blinking light). sometimes I get a blinking red light, and the power button emits a red light. So I wasn't all that bothered, I thought it might need some more time to charge, so I left it alone. But the day was fast ending, without anything happening, and I needed my phone the next day for work. So I went to have it checked, the tech said it was a battery problem, so I just bought a replacement battery.
After 2 days, the same thing happened. Not charging, Red light blinking and annoying me to death. I went and had the battery replaced again.
A few days passed, so far so good, nothing happened. I just made sure that I don't let my battery drain and charge it as soon as it falls below half.
One night, I attended a party and wasn't paying too much attention to my phone. You can guess what happened, the battery went dead. I couldn't find my (fast-charging) charger, so I used the other one while I looked for it- still wasn't charging.
I couldn't find it, so I got ready to go have the battery replaced again. But then it blinked. I thought my mind might be playing tricks with me. It blinked again. (actually it wasn't blinking, it was kind of like that slow color-changing when you open the phone). I pressed the power button. It's alive!
This happened several times already, so to make the long story short. It's the charger's fault. Now, its the charger with the low amphere rating that I bring with me, even if it does charge slowly. I only use the other one, when I'm pressed for time.
Sorry for the long post. Just wanted to share my story.
Sounds like it's the fault of the battery monitor in the phone letting the voltage of the battery drop too low damaging the cell.
A low current charge can often bring such a damaged cell back to life, where as a full current charge is likely to expose the damage and kill off the battery.
There are several things which damage lithium cells.
Heat is one of them, which is why if you're using a laptop that allows it, it's better to run off the mains where possible with the battery out. Of course this isn't always practical and if someone knocks the power lead off goes your laptop. With our phone's it's not an option. Charging also produces heat, the higher the current the hotter it gets, so short top-up charges are better than long charges.
Discharging them too low damages them. The phone should prevent this by stopping you being able to power on the phone if the voltage is too low, however it could be misreading the voltage. Sometimes they can be revived if the voltage hasn't dropped too far below the minimum, with a low current charge, but the damage would have been done so the battery wouldn't last as long as an undamaged one treated the same way and of the same age.
Time. It's a killer. From the moment of manufacture the battery's internal contacts start losing efficiency, giving the result of lower capacity over time. Heat increases this. There's nothing you can really do about it, just remember there's no point buying a spare battery to use in the future when your original one finally stops holding enough charge, by then the spare would have degraded too, so buy replacement batteries when you need them, not before.
xaccers said:
You've fallen for what I mentioned in my second sentance.
A 2A power supply does not only provide 2A, it provides anything up to 2A.
So if your phone only draws 1A, it will only provide 1A.
The phone is the charger, the thing we think of as the charger is actually just a power supply.
Unless someone has the spec sheets for the charging circuit in the phone, we don't know the maximum rate at which it will charge the battery.
One way to find out would be to discharge the battery to a level where the phone won't turn on, then without turning the phone on, set it charging.
Time how long it takes for the LED to turn green.
Divide 1230 by the time in hours that it took and you've got roughly the current drawn to charge it.
Say it takes 90 minutes with a 1A power supply, so that's a maximum charge rate of 800mA, so even if you connected it up to a 5A power supply, it will still only charge at 800mA.
So, you connect it up to your 1A power supply, that means with the phone on you've got a "spare" 200mA to play with.
If the phone isn't using more than 200mA to just "run" itself, then you'll charge a battery in the 90 minutes.
However, say you start your sat nav app, it draws 400mA (guess), the charging circuit drops to use only 600mA, taking longer to charge but allowing you to find where you're driving too.
While you're navigating to a restaurant, you want to phone ahead to confirm the reservation, so you open up Opera and search google with a 3G connection, that takes another 400mA (guess). The charging circuit now only has 200mA to use. Your battery isn't getting much charge.
Imagine using a 600mA power supply instead and you can see how you could get to the situation where despite being plugged in, your battery is running down.
I've used 400mA to demonstrate the impact, of course they real values are lower, otherwise you'd only get an hour's use out of having GPS and 3G enabled. Hmm, then again...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spot on! you really hit it...look at it againas in this analogy, you have a 2mm diameter water pipe and being fed from a 10mm diameter pipe, you cant get into the 2mm more than it could take. and reversing the scenerio, inference could be drawn!
bR
it says- output :5v 500mah
the original says-output:5v 1a(amper i guess)
will this screw up the battery?
chances are no, considering it is half what htc recommends you charge it with, either it will charge it very slowly (half the current of the original) or the voltage wont provide enough to kick the phone into charging mode and nothing will happen (i.e. the charger "wont work")
Thanks for the help
It'll work, but as panyan said, it'll recharge much more inefficiently than with a 1 amp charger.
Actually... It will charge the phone exactly as charging via USB, as USB is limited to 0.5A.
Yep, it will charge your phone just fine @ USB charging speed, I have a similar charger.
And some of you forgot to mention that the phone will struggle when for example you will play games or use gps. Charge will be insufficient and instead charging it will slowly discharge while using it.
Sent from my Desire HD uing XDA App
Well yes and no, in normal usage it will charge phone, but when you use your phone the way that you would drain the batty in two hours, then it will discharge.
Hey... Yeah if the charger is a car charger then it may not charge fast enough if using GPS software which can drain the battery fast. 1Amp reccomended for faster charging... other than that should charge fine but just slow like USB charging (which has a max of 500mA).
One question guys... I bought a car charger from ebay listed as for HTC phones. It looks like a cheap knock off product with a glowing blue HTC logo when used in the car. The device is rated at 2Amps. Now from what little I know about electronics I've been told that AC/DC Plug packs with more Amps are ok and the device just only uses what it needs. I'm not however familiar whith battery charing when you have a higher rated Amps charger... Would the battery on the phone just be greedy and "ask" for the full 2Amps? Would this then put strain or be dangerous by charging the phone too quickly?
Secondly while we are on the topic of electronics... I'm trying out a super cheap ebay battery supposedly rated at 1600mAH (I know these rating are usually fake). I've noticed the HTC battery is around 4.17V when fully charged. This battery charged up to 4.2V fully charged... Is that dangerous for the device?
2 amp is better, correct me if i am wrong. So the output is 5V and 2A, is that mean the power is 10W every hour ?
2 A charging current (if the phone takes in that much) will damage the battery in a long term use.
It is incredibly unlikely that the phone will discharge the battery faster than it charges unless you're doing something very wrong, e.g. Running a console emulator while downloading a large file over HSDPA with WiFi enabled (but not connected) and using GPS navigation with screen brightness at maximum!
Screen and background services take approx 150mAh, and I doubt radio will take much more than that combined. That puts drain 200mAh less than USB charging, 700mAh less than direct charging.
FYI: There's a spec for USB charging of mobile phones from supported USB ports which can pull up to 1500mA.
DeathJester said:
It is incredibly unlikely that the phone will discharge the battery faster than it charges unless you're doing something very wrong, e.g. Running a console emulator while downloading a large file over HSDPA with WiFi enabled (but not connected) and using GPS navigation with screen brightness at maximum!
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Click to collapse
Hmm... not sure for Desire HD I haven't tested GPS with SatNav software using current widget... I do know that I'm pulling well over 200mA just with basic use at home with Wi-Fi on and GPS & Bluetooth off and I kill all backround apps. I do know that I've been in the car and seen TomTom app on my friend's jailbroken iPhone 3G (or 3Gs) and with the GPS on and not doing anything intensive... we were actually travelling down a long straight highway, the phone was chewing more battery than the car charger could charge, so he switched off GPS.
Ah also guys no need to worry about the 2Amp charger... It sh*t itself on the 3rd car use and no longer works at all. Junk! I also noticed on the 2nd car trip that opening Android SpareParts the charge is displayed as USB Charging not AC Charging so yeah I believe that the car charger was only a standard USB (max 500mA) power output and not 1Amp let alone 2Amps. Annoying how false advertising or labelling is part and parcel with cheap Chinese products.I was meaning to test the charger's output with Current Widget (which is what I'll do for my next car charger) but the charger crapped out and was useless before I got a chance.
One thing I did notice from looking at a log using Current Widget while charging my phone on the A/C charger in standby, the charge tapers off the power output the more the battery is charged. To get an accurate idea of if the car charger is going to be outputting 1Amp I'd be sure the phone battery is down to 40% (or in the 40s) then with all other stuff switched off I'd run a log on Current Widget and turn the screen off for a few minutes. You should have a reading of around +700 to +800mA if the car charger is rated at 1Amp.
Be wary of the cheap Asian knock of car chargers with the coil spring cord and the HTC logo that lights up blue.... Not worth the 3 or 4 bucks they sell on ebay for.
There's a spec for USB charging of mobile phones from supported USB ports which can pull up to 1500mA.
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Click to collapse
There's commonly those double USB cables for laptop hard drives so yeah I can see that if the USB ports are actually giving you the full rated maximum of 500mA you can get 1Amp output with this kind of cable but 1500mA?!? The only way I'd see possible for this is either you have a tripple USB cable connected to 3USB ports that are all outputting the full 500mA (and that's if a triple cable even exists or lets say you solder another one onto a double cable) or you have a USB AC/DC charger or some other USB port/hub you've rigged up which provides more than the USB standards of max 500mA per port. How else is this possible?!? Has the max power output of 500mA changed since USB 2.0 standards?
yeah there are usb 2.0 ports with more than 500mA power supply.
some companys give some extra juice to their (or often only one) usb ports.
for example: i've got an Dell Studio XPS 16 Notebook here. it has 3 usb ports, 2 with normal 500mA supply and one with 1A (for charging your phone, etc).
DN41
Hey Folks,
So i'm currently on Scott's latest 10/22 of jellybean goodness, and i'm wondering if there are any available tweaks to increase charging current on my device kernel tweaks or app of some kind?
Why i'm asking:
I typically find that when using nav and with screen set to a reasonably low brightness, and with stock clock speeds, my battery drains faster then my charger can charge it. So the end result is that my phone will eventually power off after a long ride. I don't alway's use GPS for turn by turn navigation, but i do like to have the navigation app on, and turned onto the "map page" to display the upcoming traffic congestion in and around where i'm driving via googles traffic colour coding.
What i'm using:
I'm currently using a 1 amp USB car charger, with about 5 feet of USB cable running down the right side of my seat to the far left windshield position. I know longer cable runs are not ideal since it increases current loss due to resistance of cable, however i really don't want to mount the device any place else in the vehicle.
Secondly, after a bit of searching i found that i needed to short out the two data pins D- and D+ in order to get my phone to recognize the charger as a dedicated AC charge port and draw more then 500 ma. This did work and my phone is now drawing more current when charging and it is now showing up as (AC charging) instead of (USB charging), however it does still slowly drain battery, albeit allot slower then before.
So back to my question. Is there anything else i can do from within the device itself to get the phone to draw more current when charging?
Whenever I use my sensation when I get home, I always game on it.
You know games such as dead trigger, It gives me the notification "Power is being used more than charge" or something like that.
I was wondering if there was a charger that charges faster.
I was thinking about getting an external charger,as I have 2 batteries, but please give me your opinions!
Thanks!
I ordered a pair of Anker 1900 batteries that came with a charger that can charge a battery externally as well as charge the phone directly. Any charger capable of providing 1000mAh is enough to provide a full charge; that's all the phone will draw anyway. If you go into settings and power, if it says Charging (AC) and not Charging (USB) you're drawing as much as you can. The travel charger that shipped with the phone will give you the fast charge...
Here's the kit I ordered: http://www.amazon.com/1900mAh-Batte...id=1358461441&sr=1-2&keywords=anker+sensation
owner eod said:
Whenever I use my sensation when I get home, I always game on it.
You know games such as dead trigger, It gives me the notification "Power is being used more than charge" or something like that.
I was wondering if there was a charger that charges faster.
I was thinking about getting an external charger,as I have 2 batteries, but please give me your opinions!
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If a high powered charger existed then it still wouldn't solve your problem. The reason why you get this notification while playing games is because, in order to prevent a fire, when the Sensation reaches a certain temperature then it will stop charging the battery; if the phone gets too hot then it will not charge.
I have that problem to all i did get new battery look at thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2101362
A high power charger just has the ability to let a larger amperage value through without it melting.
But both a phone charger and a tablet charger are 5 volt devices like all
Smartphones usually have a 1amp charger. Tablets have a 2 amp charger. But both are 5 volts.
You can plug a smartphone into a 2 amp charger easily enough. But the charger can't "push" the extra amp to the phone. That's not how it works. The phone can only "pull" 1 amp. It's the device that regulates how many amps it consumes.
But you could plug your phone directly into a wall socket without a charger and it will send 120 volts to the phone. Of course this will fry the phone pretty quickly (or the phone will register that it's got too much voltage and kill the circuit to protect itself) but assuming that the phone could survive the voltage the battery would then charge very fast.
In other words a higher powered charger won't help charge the phone faster because the phone is regulating how much power it takes from the charger. The phone is set up to only draw 1 amp. Period.
More voltage would charge the device faster but fry the phone. More amperage won't help because the phone won't use it anyway.
hi, since i got the phone (2 month) i was very surprised because the fast charge, 1 game of lol was enough to get 60% or more, but since last 4 or 5 days, i have noticed that it does not longer charge like before, it used to need around 1 and a 20 min to charge all the battery, but now it takes around 2 hours, like using a normal charger. Thanks, and btw english is not my first language :silly:
Happened to me once, rebooted the phone and fast charging was working again.
4chanz said:
hi, since i got the phone (2 month) i was very surprised because the fast charge, 1 game of lol was enough to get 60% or more, but since last 4 or 5 days, i have noticed that it does not longer charge like before, it used to need around 1 and a 20 min to charge all the battery, but now it takes around 2 hours, like using a normal charger. Thanks, and btw english is not my first language :silly:
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Click to collapse
fastcharge works only with screen off and no app opened (es. game/video/music/etc)
Also make sure you using good quality cable. Some weak ones can "block" quick charge. Best setup is just the stock one.
superdioz said:
fastcharge works only with screen off and no app opened (es. game/video/music/etc)
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Click to collapse
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue. EDIT: as przemo3679 says below, Qualcomm Quick Charge standard negotiates the higher voltage mode over the data pins, so "charge only" style cords with the data pins missing or shorted will not work in QC mode.
PhantasmRezound said:
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue.
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Click to collapse
no, the snapdragon 810 has overheating problems so if the screen is on the fastcharge is disabled, is the same reason because while you play and the phone heat up the display brightness cant be over 75%.
superdioz said:
no, the snapdragon 810 has overheating problems so if the screen is on the fastcharge is disabled, is the same reason because while you play and the phone heat up the display brightness cant be over 75%.
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Click to collapse
It does not disable the fast charge simply because the screen is on. That is how you keep phrasing it.
It disables fast charge if the phone is overheating. Technically this is not the same thing.
Many common usage factors (gaming, heavy mobile data use, high screen brightness, etc.) can make the heat build up fast enough to trigger thermal throttling and disable fast charge of course. But it is also possible to tweak the kernel and thermal files and adjust usage (light browsing only, use strong wifi in lieu of mobile radio, reduce screen brightness) to keep the phone in fast charge even when screen is on.
PhantasmRezound said:
It still fast charges while in use... just won't be as fast since you're drawing power too. However, using the battery while charging at the same time makes the battery heat up very easily (true for most all devices even on normal 5V/1A chargers) so it is always recommended to keep your device in a state of minimal drain while charging.
I've had issues on past phones where sync/charge cables (stock ones even) get detected as USB connection instead of AC and charge at limited amps because of it. Swapping out to a new stock cable or even a dedicated charge cable with no sync pins usually solves the issue.
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Click to collapse
I disagree. If phone is charging, but not fast it is usually caused by damaged data lanes, or too big resistance on some lane. Cables without sync lanes would work on some devices, but would not on others, current will be limited to 500mA. It's hard to say on which.
And w/o data pins quick charge can't work on any device. Phone use it to communicate with charger to set best voltage and current to actual device.
As i said, original is the best. U can't blame damaged cord for charging issues.
I have a usb voltmeter and I can assure you that it use the 9V charging while the screen is on and also when it's in use (so the screen is on and the phone is in use). The amp only drop when percentage is near complete charging but stay at 9V so technically it still use fast charging.
Quality of the usb cable is very important but quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important. I can use a 3 meter usb cable for example, with a iPad charger (5V 2.1A and genuine) I can't even charge my flex 2 (it can't draw more than 300mA and the battery deplete more slowly but don't charge even is not in use). I won't explain why a higher voltage is less sensitive to resistance (the resistance rise with the lenght of the wire) but that's the reason we use high voltage line to transport electricity.
OP here. I use the stock charger and cable that came with the phone, plus they dont see damaged or very used. Still feeling it "slow" :s
I have H950 Stock 5.0.1 , sometimes quick charge doesn't work properly so I turn the power off and charge while off for half an hour it charges very fast and reaches over 70% then turn it back on
Le_Zouave said:
I have a usb voltmeter and I can assure you that it use the 9V charging while the screen is on and also when it's in use (so the screen is on and the phone is in use). The amp only drop when percentage is near complete charging but stay at 9V so technically it still use fast charging.
Quality of the usb cable is very important but quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important. I can use a 3 meter usb cable for example, with a iPad charger (5V 2.1A and genuine) I can't even charge my flex 2 (it can't draw more than 300mA and the battery deplete more slowly but don't charge even is not in use). I won't explain why a higher voltage is less sensitive to resistance (the resistance rise with the lenght of the wire) but that's the reason we use high voltage line to transport electricity.
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Click to collapse
I agree with You, in short words more current (A) means more temperature. At the same power (W) bigger voltage (V) means lower current (A). But i think u didn't get what i mean. There is some kind mechanism, which block quick charge when cable is too crapy. I had one of those, and it was fully functional witch data lanes, but it was designed to power 0,5A device. When i tried to connect it to the Flex it said slow charging (or something like that). I think it somehow measures resistance.
I also want to refer to your words: "quick charge (or fast charge as LG call it) use of higher voltage make the quality less important". It is advantage of the quick charge, but not main purpose. U can always made a bit thicker lanes. But you can't change connector. Remember that USB 2.0 standard was designed in april 2000, so it is a bit old now . Back in the days nobody was thinking about 5,5" monsters with 3Ah batteries. Flex is charging with around 15W and it is too much(it can dangerously hot, create arcs etc.). Remember that conductor heats up the most in the greatest resistance point, which is connector. Now we have USB type C, with better connector, which can hold on greater currents, but if we have standard, why did not use it (QC2.0 & QC3.0), and have thinner cord?
About charging time, mine from 0-10% to about 90% takes about an hour.
Guys i solved the problem, after noticing that now the animations (rotation, multitasking, and others) werent working, i decided to do a hard reset, now everything is working, fastcharge, animations, etc. not sure what was the cause, a friend told me was a virus for watching porn lol
przemo3679 said:
When i tried to connect it to the Flex it said slow charging (or something like that). I think it somehow measures resistance.
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Click to collapse
I see exactly what message you get, it's the same message when you connect to a computer, right?
It detect a computer and limit itself to 5V and 500mA which was the standard back in the time.
I know someone that fried a laptop motherboard with a vaping bypass, so that limit have purpose.
What is strange is if you get that message with a faulty cable and a lg fast charge charger because the charger should only send signal to negociate quick charge.
I don't think it can measure the resistance or the intensity, or at least the measurement is not monitored in some app because when I use a cable with high resistance and the battery percentage don't go up, I don't have that message.
Le_Zouave said:
I see exactly what message you get, it's the same message when you connect to a computer, right?
It detect a computer and limit itself to 5V and 500mA which was the standard back in the time.
I know someone that fried a laptop motherboard with a vaping bypass, so that limit have purpose.
What is strange is if you get that message with a faulty cable and a lg fast charge charger because the charger should only send signal to negociate quick charge.
I don't think it can measure the resistance or the intensity, or at least the measurement is not monitored in some app because when I use a cable with high resistance and the battery percentage don't go up, I don't have that message.
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My bad with translation. If you have no data lanes phone will usually charge with 0.5A as You said, but when i used this crappy one it was something closer to "To maintain best performance use original standardized charger". It was charging faster than 0.5A, but it wasn't QC.
przemo3679 said:
My bad with translation. If you have no data lanes phone will usually charge with 0.5A as You said, but when i used this crappy one it was something closer to "To maintain best performance use original standardized charger". It was charging faster than 0.5A, but it wasn't QC.
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I think you mean the opposite, without the data pin (2 center pin on usb plug) the phone will think he is on a charger and don't limit itself for drawing current even if it's connected to a computer.
Normally a usb device have to be limited to 5V and 500mA,
But qc need the data pin to negotiate the qc voltage so if you use a usb cable without data pin it will stay at 5V.
I have one cable that top at 5V and 100mA (around 80mA normaly) it's very low and it can't charge the phone, it just make it lose battery more slowly, in that case I don't have the message you talk about. That message should appear when it's connected on a computer. My usb voltmeter also have a feature to block data pin, when that feature is activated the message don't pop and it draw more than 500mA from a computer.
There is a good voltmeter on aliexpress, I can make you the link but it's easily recognizable with a transparent blue case, around 10$. There is many model so be sure to take the quick charge compatible. You can make theory on many things but you can truly understand only if you try by yourself.