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Any way to enable wireless charging? Possibly removing the back and with a touchstone similar to what's possible with the s3?
Swyped while swerving from my Samsung GS3
Similar to this
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1962993
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Most places are declining to make this
We need moto to make these kinda features stock
The problem is the phone is not designed to be opened or the battery removed.. hence voiding warranty if u do so
That's why we prob won't see this for the RAZR HD and HD maxx
With the s3 u can just pop the back door off...this phone I have yet to see a breakdown... I really doubt the aftermarket companies that make those kinda product will want to invest in making a product that voids ur warranty just to install it
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using xda app-developers app
This is xda surely warranties aren't a concern? If i saw a tear down it wouldn't be hard to set it up with a touch stone like the s3 i would think?
Swyped while swerving from my Samsung GS3
Thatoneguy. said:
This is xda surely warranties aren't a concern? If i saw a tear down it wouldn't be hard to set it up with a touch stone like the s3 i would think?
Swyped while swerving from my Samsung GS3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If their is room
I forgot where I read it
But the two screws on the bottom come out then the screen slides up..as far as I remember.. lol
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using xda app-developers app
Not even worth trying, I attempted this mod on the Atrix HD which is done by connecting the positive terminal on the palm pixi to the +5v part on phone and it eventually worked but a usb had to be plugged into phone the usb wasnt plugged into anything but the phone wouldnt charge unless it actually detected a usb plugged in.
Unfortunately, I don't think it will happen. It is true that XDA doesn't care too much about warranties, but there is a big difference between hardware and software warranties. Accessory manufacturers aren't going to make something that you have to hack apart your phone for. What is worth more to you, a 30 dollar wireless charging accessory that you have to jimmy rig, or the warranty that protects your $650 investment? You can unroot easy enough to return to VZW but try explaning the wireless charging mod that's on there now.
I've been interested in getting a wireless charging solution for my phone, and while I have to look into it a bit more to figure out specifics for certain things, I think it may be possible to create a case that plugs into the USB port so we wouldn't void our warranties.
Designing the case wont bee too much hassle, a micrometer and some 3D modeling software. However we need to find a way to get a micro usb connector that has a 90 degree bend in it to go into the port without causing any sort of scraping. Possibly have the right hand side of the case hinged and secured by snaps on top and bottom? or have the connector itself removable.
So materials for a test setup would require:
Touchstone components
90 degree MicroUSB male connector
Soldering gun
Custom case
I don't have the setup to do this available to me right now, however I think the biggest problem would be getting a connector small enough to keep from adding a lot of bulk to the side of the phone. Heck, with it only supplying .42 A at about 4.8 volts, it may not be inconceivable to group 2 in a case for faster charging. I haven't worked with the touchstone charger myself before, so I don't know their size.
Anyways, food for thought, and a possible personal project once I get some more important things finished up.
Hi,
Signed up just to post my results so far.
Ive gotten razr HD maxx to charge through the USB port using a touchstone pixi back cover.
It works using the touchstone charging base but the usb wall wart that came with the razr hd. The amperage coming though was not enough using a motorola dedicated usb wall charger that came with my bluetooth headphones putting out 500mA. It charges a little slower using the induction charger. I need to figure out if this will work running off my cars electrical system as that is my main motivation for getting this to work.
To get the phone to go into charging mode you have to either short out the USB data wires or connect the D+ wire to a 2v contact on the touchstone pixi circuit. Connecting the usb D+ to the 2v contact hopefully will allow me to hardwire this setup directly to the phone and leave the usb port free if, assuming I can find enough room inside for everything.
The phone is charging right now on the touchstone base, estimate 2hr to full charge from 70%
Im going to try and shove it all inside the phone tomorrow.
DrunkenFerret said:
I've been interested in getting a wireless charging solution for my phone, and while I have to look into it a bit more to figure out specifics for certain things, I think it may be possible to create a case that plugs into the USB port so we wouldn't void our warranties.
Designing the case wont bee too much hassle, a micrometer and some 3D modeling software. However we need to find a way to get a micro usb connector that has a 90 degree bend in it to go into the port without causing any sort of scraping. Possibly have the right hand side of the case hinged and secured by snaps on top and bottom? or have the connector itself removable.
So materials for a test setup would require:
Touchstone components
90 degree MicroUSB male connector
Soldering gun
Custom case
I don't have the setup to do this available to me right now, however I think the biggest problem would be getting a connector small enough to keep from adding a lot of bulk to the side of the phone. Heck, with it only supplying .42 A at about 4.8 volts, it may not be inconceivable to group 2 in a case for faster charging. I haven't worked with the touchstone charger myself before, so I don't know their size.
Anyways, food for thought, and a possible personal project once I get some more important things finished up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont know if I can get this to work internally now due to soldeirng limitations.
There is just enough space to slightly force the phone back together (it does bulge) but the pins for the USB port are covered and recessed under the USB housing. There is not enough clearance for me to do a clean solder onto the contacts.
I can not find another trace for the 5v or D+ pin on the circuit board.
If i could remove the outer cover maybe but for now this is going to have to be a plug into the USB port/external mod until i either grow a bigger pair and try to remove the USB port or find alternate contacts to solder the leads onto.
EDIT: I actually just went for it and ground off the corner of the USB casing. And actually soldered the wires onto the pins. However the touchstone system will not allow this to work internally. The battey when laid on the coil will interfere with the EMF and cause an unstable voltage. It goes from a low of 4.8 to 5.5 v. Maybe someone thats an RF engineer can figure something out with the reflector.
Maybe if i get more motivation later ill check out a qi standard charging setup to see if its compatible. For now im going to find an outer case and just go with the usb plug use this externally.
Try picking up some foil tape and put it between the battery and coil. You should be able to pick some up at your local hardware or hobby shop. It may need to be touching the ground to be effective though. Depending on some things over the next month I might be able to start working on my own setup.
Tried that but no go.
With the foil covering the coil, the voltage fluctuates before the battery is even placed over it. I hope you can get it working internally, ive since used an otterbox commuter case to hold it all together.
DrunkenFerret said:
Try picking up some foil tape and put it between the battery and coil. You should be able to pick some up at your local hardware or hobby shop. It may need to be touching the ground to be effective though. Depending on some things over the next month I might be able to start working on my own setup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In what order are you putting the components? Phone, battery then coil. Or phone coil then battery? Basically is the coil between the hardware and battery, or is the coil between the back panel and battery.
I can see where the issues would arise if it is between the battery and hardware. Both would be giving off EM waves if the device is on. If it is between them, try moving the coil to between the back panel and the battery.
Right now I can't afford to try an internal mod where I could kill the phone if I screw up, so until a couple things settle down for me I will only be attempting an external mod that fits in a case. If I can get the design right I may be able to make it so there is still a USB port available.
*Edit*
I'm sourcing/pricing components right now and you've already given me the voltage output, but how about the current provided by the coil? What I'm planning involves building a small circuit that would short the D+ wire only when there is no USB cable connected.
Anyway we can get some pics of the project in progress?
Swyped while swerving from my Droid Razr Maxx HD
Thatoneguy. said:
Anyway we can get some pics of the project in progress?
Swyped while swerving from my Droid Razr Maxx HD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I don't have the components at the moment to start my project physically, however as I said I am finding the parts I'll need. Apparently its a PITA to get male micro USB connectors without bulk orders, or importing from China. I'd prefer a SMT (surface mount for circuit boards) but those appear to be next to impossible. Anyways I've been able to find pretty much everything I need and just a matter of time till they get in.
My plan is to provide a clean circuit that would use the USB port on the phone to charge using the coil, while adding a new USB port into a phone case to still allow USB data and charging. However as the coil can create fluctuations in voltage and current, I want to have a setup that allows for it to be isolated while it is plugged in through USB.
Attached is just a quick circuit diagram I made using EveryCircuit, I need to refine it still, but just an example. Heck if you have the app rebuild it and you'll be able to see what it does. Left side is USB cable input, with a switch at top to simulate plugging in and unplugging, while the right is the phone side with the power source being the coil. The light/loads are to simulate the data lines and power lines and show whether the circuit works.
When I get the parts together I'll take pics and post a tutorial. I have some 3D modeling experience so I may even be able to design a custom case to put everything into.
DrunkenFerret said:
In what order are you putting the components? Phone, battery then coil. Or phone coil then battery? Basically is the coil between the hardware and battery, or is the coil between the back panel and battery.
I can see where the issues would arise if it is between the battery and hardware. Both would be giving off EM waves if the device is on. If it is between them, try moving the coil to between the back panel and the battery.
Right now I can't afford to try an internal mod where I could kill the phone if I screw up, so until a couple things settle down for me I will only be attempting an external mod that fits in a case. If I can get the design right I may be able to make it so there is still a USB port available.
*Edit*
I'm sourcing/pricing components right now and you've already given me the voltage output, but how about the current provided by the coil? What I'm planning involves building a small circuit that would short the D+ wire only when there is no USB cable connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the coil was sandwiched between the back case of the phone and the battery. The metal in the battery is influencing the flux going through the charging coil. The base is not always on, it only turns on when the charging coil is present. If not present the base seems to send out a pulse every so often to detect the presence of the charging coil inside the phone.
The issues arise once the battery is laid across the coil, the base begins to oscillate and the voltage begins to alternate. Also the coils seem to only work within a specific frequency range, but i dont have a signal generator or oscope to confirm this.
According to the battery charging app the base is putting out ~6-700mA to the phone with an 1A charger plugged into the base.
EDIT: SCROLL DOWN TO POST #12 WHERE I SHOW YOU HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN FULL-1900 mAh CHARGER!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=43663686&postcount=12
-=========================================
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
hello did you buy it?
CZ Eddie said:
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
I ran it off the clock circuit (my clock is dead anyways) but any switched 12v source will do. It charges my car integrated Nexus7 without any issues, and at the faster rate.
I have another powering a servo and an aux USB port, but unfortunately I ran so much wire to get it into the center console by the handbrake it charges at USB rates.
paolopaulpaul said:
hello did you buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet.
Caferacer said:
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Just bought this one for $9 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-waterpr...34?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item3a7a051922
It's a waterproof box so it'll be better on my Motorcycle. I'll let you guys know how it works out by next week sometime.
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
CZ Eddie said:
Not yet.
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
MonkeyTime said:
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Caferacer said:
shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
MichaelBR said:
There are some reasons why it won't work, and some ways to solve it. First, let's understand how it works:
The USB cable has four pins. The inner two pins are where the data goes through. THe outer, power.
When the USB cable is plugged in to a computer, the data pins are connected normally and the phone knows it can only draw certain amount of power
When the cable is plugged in to a charger, the two middle pins are shorted, and the phone knows that it's NOT going to be sendind/receiving data, so it can draw as much power as it can. That's why it charges faster with the charger than when plugged in to a computer
Most chargers short the two pins. Some cables have a switch to do that.
There are different cable cauges as well, with different power capacities.
Some USB chargers, notably car chargers and some low-end (i.e. not good brand) chargers that don't draw from the car/don't give the phone as much current as it needs.
So, if any of below, the phone won't charge, or won't charge fast enough. Or, worse: it may appear as charging, but actually losing battery charge!
Cable too long or incorrect gauge
Middle pins not shorted for some reason
Charger doesn't deliver enough current
And the solutions are:
Don't use cable extensions, cables that are too long. Stick with the cable that came with the phone or with the charger
Get a good car charger, that delivers the right amount of current
I imagine you just got the cable from your original wall charger and plugged it in to the car charger. If you did that, then chances are the cable is OK, and the charger is the culprit. If this is the case, then get a better charger. Check how much current that charger can deliver. Check how much current your device actually needs.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CZ Eddie said:
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Caferacer said:
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Caferacer said:
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I agree with what you posted in general terms, below is the link to the thread I was talking about. He did some testing and found the pins aren't just shorted, but shorted w/ 82K resistors to get the maximum charging current.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2274321
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it? Also If it does not damage would it be able to run the camera as a "blackbox" and not die? I currently have a 2a charger and when i use the black box software it dies after about an hour or so.
SUCCESS!
I got the little black box in from eBay.
Gave it a quick/test wire setup. This is NOT indicative of the end result which will be soldered & have shrink tubing, etc.
Okay, first I grabbed my stock S3 data/charge cable.
Snipped off the standard USB end.
Cut off the ends of the pin 2 & 3 wires since they were not being used anymore (data pins).
Then attached the red (power) from the S3 cable to the yellow (power) lead from the little black box. And did the same for the black (negative) leads.
Then hard wired the red & black from the little black box to my motorcycle battery terminals.
On the first test, I only got 460mAh.
Then I decided to short the 2 & 3 pin wires (green & white) on the S3 cable together (attach them to each other). This gave me 1120mAh!
Next I took the tin-foil and wire braid from the S3 cable and tied them together with the negative lead on the S3 cable. This gave me 1220mAh!
Still not satisfied, I then cut down the 5' S3 cable and made it a 1.5' cable.
AND THIS RESULTED IN A FULL 1920mAh!!!! Right on.
That is exactly the same mAh as the stock S4 wall charger & cable combo give me. Very stoked about this. So now I'll do a nice clean install on the bike and then duplicate it for my car dock sometime soon. FULL CHARGE AHEAD!
Crxdc said:
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it will be fine. The phone only draws 1900mAh. If the phone were drawing 3000mAh then there might be a problem.
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
CZ Eddie said:
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome.
Hard wire phone charger and Bluetooth Receiver to car battery plan...
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks good to me. :good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-USB-Ca...064?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51af639938
ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
MonkeyTime said:
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, my clock circuit has a switched lead to wake up the clock as well as a hard wired lead to retain the time. Both run to the same 10A fuse.
There is a small transformer in the converter and the receiver bluetooth will stay on. They have a small energy draw which is not negligible over a long period of time. At the very least I would include a dash mounted switch to completely shut the charger and receiver off. For instance I have a bluetooth OBD adapter (Not too much unlike your bluetooth receiver) that drained a 2 year old car battery over a week I left the car sitting while I was on vacation. For day to day driving it's not a problem but my OBD adapter isn't hardwired and I can just remove it when I know the car will be sitting.
Thanks
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oooh, good point! Makes sense to me. I have never done a mod to my car's audio system so I'll be paying a professional installer. I'm so glad to have this information before I shop around at the good places here and get some offers!
Thank you!
After my disastrous experience with Seidio I'm thinking to order the Otterbox Defender and the ProClip car mount (designed specifically for the Defender case) I'm thinking about is available with or without a built in male mini USB for charging. I already have an Incipio Quick Charge 2.0 12v car charger the 12v accessory outlet USB plugin which I could use with the USB end of the ProClip cable.
Trying to think this through I'm wondering if anybody sees a distinct advantage or disadvantage to having the built in mini USB on the phone cradle.
For the way I normally use my phone in the car I don't usually run the battery down to the point charging is necessary although I do charge it. My vehicle's 12v accessory outlet is located on the passenger side of my console low to the floor (terrible location) so I can't unplug the charger while driving unless I was at a stoplight or pulled over. With the built in mini USB the only way to disconnect it is either take the phone out of the cradle which I wouldn't do while driving or disconnect the USB/12v accessory plug (or pull the USB cable out of the plug).
My inclination is to go with a cradle without a mini USB however if someone posts a benefit I haven't thought of to having the mini USB it also makes the aluminum CraigsDock carmount which is only available with a mini USB charging plug a possibility and I like that mount too.
Any thoughts on the subject greatly appreciated!!
mty msi said:
After my disastrous experience with Seidio I'm thinking to order the Otterbox Defender and the ProClip car mount (designed specifically for the Defender case) I'm thinking about is available with or without a built in male mini USB for charging. I already have an Incipio Quick Charge 2.0 12v car charger the 12v accessory outlet USB plugin which I could use with the USB end of the ProClip cable.
Trying to think this through I'm wondering if anybody sees a distinct advantage or disadvantage to having the built in mini USB on the phone cradle.
For the way I normally use my phone in the car I don't usually run the battery down to the point charging is necessary although I do charge it. My vehicle's 12v accessory outlet is located on the passenger side of my console low to the floor (terrible location) so I can't unplug the charger while driving unless I was at a stoplight or pulled over. With the built in mini USB the only way to disconnect it is either take the phone out of the cradle which I wouldn't do while driving or disconnect the USB/12v accessory plug (or pull the USB cable out of the plug).
My inclination is to go with a cradle without a mini USB however if someone posts a benefit I haven't thought of to having the mini USB it also makes the aluminum CraigsDock carmount which is only available with a mini USB charging plug a possibility and I like that mount too.
Any thoughts on the subject greatly appreciated!!
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It seems like you have it mostly covered. However, you stated that you don't really use your battery much while driving-- So i'm just wondering why you would go through all the hassle of trying to figure this out. for myself, personally, I plug in my car charger into the cigarette lighter, and just plug it into my phone before placing on my car mount. But that's just what I do, and is certainly not the only way it can be done. But from what it sounds like, you should be more than okay with your planned idea.
srltzz342 said:
It seems like you have it mostly covered. However, you stated that you don't really use your battery much while driving-- So i'm just wondering why you would go through all the hassle of trying to figure this out. for myself, personally, I plug in my car charger into the cigarette lighter, and just plug it into my phone before placing on my car mount. But that's just what I do, and is certainly not the only way it can be done. But from what it sounds like, you should be more than okay with your planned idea.
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Reason I'm asking for pros/cons on the mini USD built into the phone cradle is I prefer the Craigsdock which only comes with the mini USB. The Craigsdock is milled aluminum vs. the ProClip's plastic, it's universal so I could use it on different vehicles & phones and because its adhesive mounting plate is tiny compared to the ProClip vehicle specific dash mount it would look a lot nicer in my vehicle. The Craigsdock is most likely the last car mount I'd ever have to buy.
What I wasn't sure about is if the phone is left plugged in continually when it's fully charged whether that could cause damage and according to Craig @ Craigsdock it will not.
Below are the links to the two mounts:
http://proclipusa.net/instruction.php?sku=854540
http://www.craigsdocks.com/samsung-galaxy-s3-s4-s5-note-3-4-car-dock/
I decided to go with the Craigsdock and will review it after I've had a chance to use it.
get a wireless charger and dont look back. its awesome. i use an iblason armorbox, an itian wireless charger fixed to the car with 3m scotch outdoor double sided weatherproof tape and the samsung oem qi back. works great.
zurkx said:
get a wireless charger and dont look back. its awesome. i use an iblason armorbox, an itian wireless charger fixed to the car with 3m scotch outdoor double sided weatherproof tape and the samsung oem qi back. works great.
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Reason I'm getting the Craigsmount dock is it will place the phone exactly where I want in my vehicle. Screen will be about 3 inches away from my dash to the right of the steering wheel (not as far away from the dash as the steering wheel is but next to it). Also the Craigsmount will have a cable that keeps the native docking app continually activated. Now all I have to do is figure out how to make the phone's native docking app automatically trigger my Car Home Ultra app and I'm good to go.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KIOSTM4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Absolutely recommend this car mount. And it goes perfect if you have the otterbox defender too!
Never take off my defender when I'm outside, and now when I mount it on my windshield, I never have too.
After doing some research I see that the XZ Premium doesnt have Qi charging built in like most other devices. There exists external wireless charging receivers that connect to the USB C port in the device to charge it. Im just curious if anyone has tried it and if so what are your thoughts?
Is it convenient to drop the device on a pad to charge if for around £15/$20? Or is it convenient enough just to continue using USB C?
Also I would like to know if charging speeds differ not that it would matter to me as I charge overnight but im just curious.
Thanks.
That sounds absolutely silly. Unless the plug-in accessory/dongle is actually also a case of some sort, what on Earth would be the point of plugging in an adapter to use wireless charging? If you are going to plug the phone in, just use the cable. Wtf...
Heinous said:
That sounds absolutely silly. Unless the plug-in accessory/dongle is actually also a case of some sort, what on Earth would be the point of plugging in an adapter to use wireless charging? If you are going to plug the phone in, just use the cable. Wtf...
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some of these wireless adaptors have a very slim usb cable and pad so they can be placed in a case having a usb plug in the port all the time will keep dust out but could be annoying if you need to use the port for data transfer. In my experience charging is slower because most of the ones I have seen are rated at about 1A also they have to be placed on the charging pad just right and don't always work if your case is to thick. I use a micro usb one with my old phone worked well with one of those cheap TUP cases with the plastic back with the kick stand but only when I took the plastic back off. Another option is one of the magnetic cables not wireless charging but saves the usb port. hope this helps sorry I cant post links because this is my first post.
Henry. said:
some of these wireless adaptors have a very slim usb cable and pad so they can be placed in a case having a usb plug in the port all the time will keep dust out but could be annoying if you need to use the port for data transfer. In my experience charging is slower because most of the ones I have seen are rated at about 1A also they have to be placed on the charging pad just right and don't always work if your case is to thick. I use a micro usb one with my old phone worked well with one of those cheap TUP cases with the plastic back with the kick stand but only when I took the plastic back off. Another option is one of the magnetic cables not wireless charging but saves the usb port. hope this helps sorry I cant post links because this is my first post.
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I understand your explanation, but it doesn't make the concept any less silly.
Well if it's not built in the phone why would i use dongles or anything else? unless there is a case that has a protection for the phone and wireless charging then i do not see a point on it.
CKkio23 said:
Well if it's not built in the phone why would i use dongles or anything else? unless there is a case that has a protection for the phone and wireless charging then i do not see a point on it.
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Ive read that people use a case and they just place the receiver inside the case since its said to be really thin. Also the cable that plugs in is like a flex cable so you could easily hide the receiver inside a case.
Heinous said:
That sounds absolutely silly. Unless the plug-in accessory/dongle is actually also a case of some sort, what on Earth would be the point of plugging in an adapter to use wireless charging? If you are going to plug the phone in, just use the cable. Wtf...
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My car has a nice wireless charging pocket that you put you phone in. It feels a lot nicer without having to plug in a cable and make a mess out of it. I would prefer using a wireless charging case just to NOT use an extra cable.
Hi,
I want to retrofit wireless charging capability with one of those thin receivers you can put between your phone and the case and then plug into the usb port. The only thing that worries me is a coil or antenna or something which is sitting on top of the battery. I can be seen in this disassembly video: https://youtu.be/kNzDbb-lJzs?t=42 This would probably be covered by the added receiver. What is this? Would covering this up be a problem?
HilmarG said:
Hi,
I want to retrofit wireless charging capability with one of those thin receivers you can put between your phone and the case and then plug into the usb port. The only thing that worries me is a coil or antenna or something which is sitting on top of the battery. I can be seen in this disassembly video: https://youtu.be/kNzDbb-lJzs?t=42 This would probably be covered by the added receiver. What is this? Would covering this up be a problem?
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NFC.
It doesn't seem like a good idea to me.
Mhm, ok. If I don't want to use NFC anyway would this be a problem? I mean, the phone should be able to handle beeing placed on a qi charging station (if someone is ignorant that it does not have this function) without induction of any harmful currents into that antenna, right? So I would just loose the NFC functionality if I shield it with the receiver patch.
HilmarG said:
Mhm, ok. If I don't want to use NFC anyway would this be a problem? I mean, the phone should be able to handle beeing placed on a qi charging station (if someone is ignorant that it does not have this function) without induction of any harmful currents into that antenna, right? So I would just loose the NFC functionality if I shield it with the receiver patch.
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My reaction was not about NFC, it is even possible that it will continue to work, maybe it will be less sensitive. I just expressed my opinion that I personally dislike your intention, because I don't think wireless charging is a killer feature for the ZF6 that we have to regret not having. Moreover, our battery size and space in which it is located and cooled, and so on is not at all adapted for continuous wireless charging and higher charging temperature.
After all, we don't charge so often with our big battery, and when you charging by cable, you charge more environmentally and faster than with the best wireless charger. That is to be remembered, and that is what I meant and what was my point.
For me NFC and big battery are killer features, but wireless charging isn't.
_jis_ said:
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For me NFC and big battery are killer features, but wireless charging isn't.
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OK, I am getting your point. I just bought this phone, and was not used to having a battery that can go two days easily. I have qi chargers scattered around everywhere (car, office, living room ...) to top up my battery whenever I lay my phone down somewhere. That is starting to seem a bit pointless. I just discovered the function to slowly (and therefore least damaging to the battery) charge and reach 100% at a specified time. Perfect for overnight charging.
Let's give it a few more days to see if I still feel the urge to retrofit wireless charging.
But from the purely technical standpoint, I had another thought. The qi charger only switches on the charging field when it detects a compatible device set down on it. So it would not do that if an untouched Zenfone 6 would be placed on the charger, and there would not be any danger of inducing currents into the NFC antenna and damaging something. Now, if I retrofit a charging pad the charger actually does produce a field when the phone is on it, thats the whole point. No idea how much current would actually be inducted in the NFC antenna, but I am very certain it is not zero. Does someone have the technical background to at least make a guess?