Largest battery that stick fits under the stock back cover - Epic 4G Accessories

Are there any larger batteries that will still fit in the stock back. I want an "extended battery", but am not willing to sacrifice my Active X case to get one.

For all intents and purposes, no. There is a 1600 mAh that sells for some ridiculous price like 60 dollars or something, but anyone who spends that much for a 100 mAh bumb at BEST is moronic. Also, Stock batteries typically have an extremely high real life mAh, usually 95-98% of rated mAh. Any aftermarket will not have as high of a percentage, so a 1600 will probably be just barely better than stock.

muyoso said:
For all intents and purposes, no. There is a 1600 mAh that sells for some ridiculous price like 60 dollars or something, but anyone who spends that much for a 100 mAh bumb at BEST is moronic. Also, Stock batteries typically have an extremely high real life mAh, usually 95-98% of rated mAh. Any aftermarket will not have as high of a percentage, so a 1600 will probably be just barely better than stock.
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This is not true the 1600 battery is a seidio and seidio batteries are pretty well known for being higher quality than stock. Tag on some extra charge on top of that and it will probably be quite noticable. A couple years ago when I had a touch pro 2 I bought a seidio battery that had 250 mAH more than stock and in real life usage I almost got double the time out of it. I changed from charging every night to every other night.

That is absolutely based on no truth. Seido is ABSOLUTELY not better than stock. In fact, NOTHING beats stock batteries.
batteryboss.org
No Seido battery has better than an 84% real life mAH to rated mAH. Stock batteries have at MINIMUM 95% real life mAH to rated mAH.
84% of 1600 = 1344 mAH
95% of 1500 = 1425 mAH

I think I am just going to hook a car battery up to it..........it will be months before I have to recharge

mikeschevelle said:
I think I am just going to hook a car battery up to it..........it will be months before I have to recharge
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Just get Shorai Battery, much lighter and easier to carry around.
SS

muyoso, do you have the research from the site to back up those numbers? I'm not about to go digging for it myself...
There are a variety of factors that reduce a lithium ion battery's performance. First of all, lithium batteries have a higher internal resistance than their nickel metal-hydride and nickel cadmium counterparts (counterparts in the sense of their use in cell phones over the years). This is one reason why they heat up quite a bit during both charge and discharge, and consequently "age" faster when existing in a warm environment.
Lithium batteries self-discharge at around 8% per month, and during this time typically suffer a permanent capacity loss when left unused. Batteries that were produced and stored in a warm place for too long will certainly not charge to as high of a capacity as another identical battery that was produced and began earlier discharge cycles in a real-world environment.
Lithium batteries do not have a "memory," which is the effect that nickel cadmium batteries are reputable for carrying over the course of many charge/discharge cycles. In other words, your battery isn't going to suffer because you never let it run dead before charging it all the way back up. It doesn't matter. However, leaving it on a charger with Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and a high-definition porno on simultaneously will only negatively effect the battery due to the heat generated from current delivery.
Some batteries are simply better than others. This holds true even among batteries of the same brand, capacity and application. The way they are handled, stored and used determines the life and performance of the battery in your phone. In this case, do not drain your battery to 0% before charging it back up. It's typical for lithium batteries' capacity to permanently drop by 15-25% within one year's use.
If you have a spare cell, charge it to about 40%, take it out and put in the refrigerator. Also, make sure you check the manufacturing date on the packaging, as I said before, storing for long periods without a 40% charge or regular charge/discharge cycles will result in a lessened capacity.
Just figured I would throw a few facts out there. I began using lithium batteries for robotics projects a number of years ago when they became much more prevalent.

The guy behind batteryboss.org did extensive testing. Stock batteries were all rated at near rated capacity. Seido batteries were not. He clearly explains his testing procedures. I have read over that site pretty thoroughly and trust his numbers and technique.

Related

Lithium Ion Battery Maintenance 101

This goes for ANY comsumer electronic device using Li-ion rechargeable batteries of any discharge capacity.
Some seem to complain that the WM6 battery driver core is to blame for their Universal flaming-out at even 90% capacity. I personally think that there might be some truth to this and am going through tons of stuff to prove such a hypothesis.
In the meantime, here are some simple guidelines:
* Avoid frequent full discharges because this puts additional strain on the battery. Several partial discharges with frequent recharges are better for lithium-ion than one deep one. Recharging a partially charged lithium-ion does not cause harm because there is no memory. (In this respect, lithium-ion differs from nickel-based batteries.) Short battery life in a laptop is mainly cause by heat rather than charge / discharge patterns.
* Batteries with fuel gauge (laptops) should be calibrated by applying a deliberate full discharge once every 30 charges. Running the pack down in the equipment does this. If ignored, the fuel gauge will become increasingly less accurate and in some cases cut off the device prematurely.
* Keep the lithium-ion battery cool. Avoid a hot car. For prolonged storage, keep the battery at a 40% charge level.
* Consider removing the battery from a laptop when running on fixed power. (Some laptop manufacturers are concerned about dust and moisture accumulating inside the battery casing.)
* Avoid purchasing spare lithium-ion batteries for later use. Observe manufacturing dates. Do not buy old stock, even if sold at clearance prices.
* If you have a spare lithium-ion battery, use one to the fullest and keep the other cool by placing it in the refrigerator. Do not freeze the battery. For best results, store the battery at 40% state-of-charge.
Here's the full deal http://www.batteryuniversity.com/parttwo-34.htm
Very nice info. I actually practice what you say.
Interesting,
Will try on my laptop battery first
All true...
If maintained properly, a Li-ion battery may last more than 1000 recharge cycles.
If the battery is too aged, and cuts off prematurely, you can still get a few per cents out of it, by wrapping it in a cloth, and tapping it forcefully against something hard(stirs up and loosens the coagulated electrolyte, giving a bit of boost). ONLY USE THIS ON OLD BATTERIES, AND DO NOT EXPECT MIRACLES!!! And don't tap too hard, you don't want to crack the case...
@nvatvanti
You are talking about Li Ion Battery.
Universal is using Li Polymer Battery.
I have one recommendation
- Avoid deep recharges as mentioned by the thread starter, however, do too avoid overly frequent charges.
Lithium batteries do have a fixed number of charge cycles (say 1000). So after 1000 (+/-), the battery performance will drop drastically.
Personally, I recharge my Universal battery @ 25-40% to conserve both battery performance and battery life span.
Hope this little tip helps.
CWKJ said:
@nvatvanti
You are talking about Li Ion Battery.
Universal is using Li Polymer Battery.
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he got you there guys...
CWKJ said:
@nvatvanti
You are talking about Li Ion Battery.
Universal is using Li Polymer Battery.
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Click to collapse
Not much difference, according to Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_ion_polymer_battery
Cyber-mate said:
he got you there guys...
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As indicated by TehPenguin, Li-ion VS Li-ion polymer are absolutely indifferent except for: The state of the electrolyte.
In normal Li-ion - its a solvent (liquid), but in a Li-ion polymer its a solid. The primary purpose for the invention of Li-ion polymer is to avoid leaks and spills and to contain a fire if it occurs. Explosions are still applicable to both technologies unfortunately.
The chemical process between Li-ion and Li-ion polymer is largely the same (oxidation and reduction of Lithium, Manganese, Cobalt + salts), and so by logical conclusion - whatever maintenence procedure is applicable for Li-ion can be re-applied for Li-ion polymer.
The real killer for the batteries is temperature, too hot, and too cold will reduce it's lifespan, and on a mobile device, that's really hard to avoid.
One of the reasons they say keeping a lithium battery topped up is healthier, is because during a charge, the battery will get warm, the less it has to charge, the less it will warm up.
Just for the sake of mentioning it, its an absolute pain in the ass to conform to this maintenence procedure with your bluetooth headset.
iMate Distributor Complaint!!
nvatvani said:
As indicated by TehPenguin, Li-ion VS Li-ion polymer are absolutely indifferent except for: The state of the electrolyte.
In normal Li-ion - its a solvent (liquid), but in a Li-ion polymer its a solid. The primary purpose for the invention of Li-ion polymer is to avoid leaks and spills and to contain a fire if it occurs. Explosions are still applicable to both technologies unfortunately.
The chemical process between Li-ion and Li-ion polymer is largely the same (oxidation and reduction of Lithium, Manganese, Cobalt + salts), and so by logical conclusion - whatever maintenance procedure is applicable for Li-ion can be re-applied for Li-ion polymer.
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Alright, I don't wanna sound like complaining, but they really got over my patience. "AXIOM" is one of the distributors of iMate in Dubai. They do provide service as well.
I went there and after reading many of the recent posts about batteries and maintenance, I decided to but one for Himalaya & another for Uni.
Guess what! They wouldn't have'em on the shelf stock nor it is a sealed package!! They claim that since it is a service center, the only form of battery they sell is in an open plastic pack with NO GUARANTEE!!
Of course it is very surprising and more surprisingly, they claim that iMate ME don't provide batteries, it is OEM ones!! Oh, one more, Uni battery was out of stock in a market of 100k Uni users!!
I need you guys to share your views and comments from wherever you are coming from, how do those merchants handle such issues? Be honest.
I buy my batteries from cheap suppliers in the UK, they are not made by HTC, or any official partner, but I have not had problems so far, and they are *very* cheap.
My 3800 mah one only cost £16 including P&P.
I am considering buying a new battery as quoted from http://www.expansys.com/htc/p_htc_phone.aspx?i=125550
which seems to be an HTC recommended reseller.
Its definitely more expensive than AlanJC's quote and will set you back £38.95 for the normal 1620mAh battery and £48.95 for the 3800mAh one. These figures do not including fees and charges.

Discharging ("deep-cycling") your battery? STOP doing that.

If you like to deep-cycle (fully drain/recharge) their battery, you should stop doing that. Many of us got used to deep-cycling the Ni-Cd batteries, and didn't notice the smooth transition to Li-Ion batteries.
In fact, I can't think of a phone (or any other gadget) that would use Ni-Cd battery today. AFAIK, all modern phones/PDAs have Li-Ion batteries (including Raphael) which you SHOULD NOT fully discharge.
Here's a quote from wikipedia.org (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Li-ion_battery):
Like many rechargeable batteries, lithium-ion batteries should be charged early and often. However, if they are not used for a long time, they should be brought to a charge level of around 40%–60%
Lithium-ion batteries should not be frequently discharged fully and recharged ("deep-cycled"), but this may be necessary after about every 30th recharge to recalibrate any electronic charge monitor (e.g. a battery meter). This allows the monitoring electronics to more accurately estimate battery charge.[27] This has nothing to do with the memory effect.
Li-ion batteries should never be depleted to below their minimum voltage, 2.4 V to 3.0 V per cell.
Li-ion batteries should be kept cool. Ideally they are stored in a refrigerator. Aging will take its toll much faster at high temperatures. The high temperatures found in cars cause lithium-ion batteries to degrade rapidly.
Li-ion batteries should not be frozen [50] (most lithium-ion battery electrolytes freeze at approximately −40 °C; however, this is much colder than the lowest temperature reached by household freezers).
Li-ion batteries should be bought only when needed, because the aging process begins as soon as the battery is manufactured.[27]
When using a notebook computer running from fixed line power over extended periods, consider removing the battery[51] and storing it in a cool place so that it is not affected by the heat produced by the computer.
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Hope this helps someone.

Check the mAh of a recieved battery?

Is there any way to check the mAh of a battery you just recieved. I ordered a 3500mah one off ebay and just want to make sure that it is the same mah as stated. Is there a program or some way I can check this?
Thanks
Typically you'll need a device, or some system to discharge the battery at a constant current, and then measure the time it takes to meet its final voltage, and you need to watch it to make sure you don't kill the battery. Plus the life also depends on the discharge rate so you may get more than 3.5Ah out of it if you discharge it longer with a low current then visa versa.
Also typically batteries you buy on ebay don't normally meet the rated life.
garbz said:
Typically you'll need a device, or some system to discharge the battery at a constant current, and then measure the time it takes to meet its final voltage, and you need to watch it to make sure you don't kill the battery. Plus the life also depends on the discharge rate so you may get more than 3.5Ah out of it if you discharge it longer with a low current then visa versa.
Also typically batteries you buy on ebay don't normally meet the rated life.
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Click to collapse
I just bought a 3500mah battery from ebay. Its only gone through 1 full discharge but assuming my Samsung battery is 1500mAh I'd estimate the ebay one to be about 2200-2300mAh.. hopefully it will increase after a few cylces and calibration
I bought that battery, and it's definitely not that good, Idk if I got a bad one, but my phone only last about hmm the same as the stock battery.. I wish I could check the mah

Cell Battery Guide (Pro)

This is from batteries4less.com in their Battery Guide.
Cell Phone Battery Guide
Cell Phone Battery Types - The four most common types of batteries for cellular phones are:
Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) Lithium Polymer (Li-Poly)
Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) Nickel Cadmium (NiCd)
Lithium Ion Batteries (LiION) are the most popular cell phone batteries available.
Li-ION have replaced NiMH batteries for many phones because they provide 4 distinct advantages:
Li-ION batteries provide 40% longer Standby and Talk Times than NiMH batteries.
Li-ION batteries are lighter and more compact than NiMH batteries.
Li-ION batteries does not suffer from memory effect .
Li-ION batteries will last over 30% longer than NiMH batteries because the cells accept more charge cycles.
Li-ION batteries rank as the "best value" of all cellular phone battery types. Batteries4less.com provides the largest selection of Li-ION batteries anywhere. Take advantage of the reliability, long battery life, and compact size of our cell phone batteries at the Lowest Prices Guaranteed!
Largest Selection of Cellular Batteries on the Planet!
Lithium Polymer Battery (Li-Poly)
Lithium Polymer Battery(Li-Poly) is the newest and most advanced technology for cellular phone batteries. This brand new chemistry of battery allows for the most compact cells available. Li-Poly batteries are extremely light and thin and allow the most battery life for the size. Lithium Polymer cellular batteries share all of the benefits of Li-ION batteries but will last over twice as long.
Nickel Metal Hydride Batteries (NiMH)
Nickel Metal Hydride Batteries (NiMH) were introduced in the early 1990's as an improvement over older chemistries like Nickel Cadmium (NiCd). Although they may have a very slight memory effect, NiMH batteries are much more reliable than previous chemistries. Compared to a NiCd battery of equal size, a NiMH battery will run for 30-40% longer on each charge. NiMH batteries can be recharged 60% in just 15 minutes using a car charger, an obvious asset for motorists. The unique NiMH chemistry packs much more power than NiCd. Additionally, NiMH batteries often have twice the lifespan of NiCds. Batteries4less.com carries an extensive line of Nickel Metal Hydride batteries.
Nickel Cadmium Batteries (NiCd)
Nickel Cadmium Batteries (NiCd) are manufactured using older technology and suffer from memory effect. They must be completely discharged before recharging to avoid incurring damage to the battery. This discharge procedure can add extra time to the overall charging process. The memory effect inherent in all NiCd batteries reduces the battery's overall capacity, run time, and life span. NiCd batteries are being slowly phased out and replaced by NiMH and LiION. Also, the "nickel cadmium" used in NiCd batteries is highly toxic to the environment. Thus, it is difficult to responsibly dispose of NiCd batteries.
Memory Effect
The term "memory" in reference to batteries means the battery "remembers" its usual discharge point and superficially "needs" a charge whenever it hits that point. In other words, if you have a NiCad that always gets discharged to only 50% of its capacity, it will eventually not run below that 50% mark if you ever wanted to discharge it to a lower point.
Batteries4less.com is committed to offering superior cellphone batteries * to our customers. NiCd batteries and their inherent memory effect generate many problems and customer complaints. In most cases their charge-holding capacity greatly declines or they burn out and die well in advance of their normal life expectancy. For these reasons, we no longer sell NiCd batteries or support NiCd technology. Instead, we offer NiMH and LiION replacement batteries for existing NiCd models. At batteries4less.com, we exclusively promote Nickel Metal Hydride, Lithium Ion and now Lithium Polymer as the preferred cellphone battery technologies for mobile professionals worldwide.
* All products mentioned above are after-market/non-OEM unless otherwise specificed.
* All brand names and trademarks are properties of their respective owners. Batteries4less.com does not assume or imply ownership of these brand names and trademarks.
Battery Recycling
Batteries4less.com is committed to recycling our rechargeable batteries and encouraging our customers to do the same. For proper disposal of your old battery, you should return it to the original place of purchase or to a collection center. You can also contact the local Department of Household Hazardous in your state. Your local Town Hall is also a good place to inquire. Please go to
RBRC (www.rbrc.com) for a drop off center near you or send your battery back to us at:
batteries4less.com
Attn: Recycling Program
PO Box 453
Chicago Park, CA 95712
Click here for more handy cell phone battery care tips provided by the RBRC at http://www.rbrc.com/consumer/tips.html.
Standby and Talk Times:
Please refer to our Standby and Talk Time information page.
How to maximize the life of your cell phone battery --
There are several things you can do to maximize the useful life of your battery: Dirty battery contacts are the number one source of charging problems. Clean the battery contacts with alcohol and a cotton swab from time to time. Make sure no cotton is left on the contact points. Don’t leave your rechargeable batteries dormant for extended periods. Take them for a "spin around the block" every so often. Even if you use AC power most of the time; use the battery periodically to keep it fresh and healthy. Unplug your AC adapter if you are not using your cellphone. Batteries that sit idle for extended periods of time without charging begin to lose their ability to hold a charge and will self-discharge, so remember to charge them again before use. Always store batteries in a cool, dry place away from heat and metal objects.
Intitial Charge Cycle --
New cell phone batteries must be trickle charged (slow charged) prior to their first use and for the first several uses. As all of our batteries are new, they are uncharged. All batteries require a "break-in" period, so don't be alarmed if your battery doesn't hold a full charge right away. A new battery may show false full charge as indicated on your phone or charger. Also the battery may not power up the phone because of low voltage. For the First Three Cycles, please make sure to charge the battery fully and drain it fully before recharging. This will properly condition the battery and will ensure that it will operate at its maximum capacity. This is recommended for all cellular phone batteries. You can discharge most portable phones by unplugging the AC adapter and leaving it turned on until completely discharged. Remember - "Take care of your Cell Phone Battery and your Phone Battery will take care of you."
Note: mAh – stands for "milli Amp hours" and is the measurement of a battery’s storage capacity.

[Q] First charge

Hey, I just got my nexus 5 today and have been using it for a couple hours. I've always been told to dicharge new phones to about 10% and then fully charge them for 8-10 hours straight, but I'm starting to think that it only apply for old battery models. Do you think I can charge it for maybe 2 hours and then use it without damaging the battery life potential, or is it better do do full discharge/charge? Thanks.
I think you answered your own question. No need to completely charge
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Whoever told you that was wrong, even many years ago.
These are lithium batteries, they have no memory.
I'll copy-pasta one of my very long posts on this I made a while back:
1. Charging is what reduces the life of a lithium ion/polymer battery. Batteries are usually rated between 700-1000 charge cycles while keeping 90% of their capacity.
2. Charging 0-100% counts as one cycle. Charging 80-100% 5 times counts as one cycle.
3. Leaving your phone on the charger after it is charged has the potential to reduce battery life, although this is less of a problem with newer devices as they often disconnect the charging circuit until the battery drops below ~95%. Generally only an issue if you leave it on the charger for 24+ hours.
4. Lithium batteries do not require any conditioning.
5. Most lithium devices arrive with ~40-50% battery life remaining, because this is the optimal charge level to store a lithium battery for long periods (such as sitting on a store shelf for months).
6. Slower charging maintains the battery's overall lifetime capacity better than fast charging. This is likely why the HTC One does not have Qualcomm's Quick Charge enabled. It's debateable whether you'd notice the effects over the typical lifetime of a smartphone, however (2 years).
7. Not exactly related to lithium but just in general: smartphones (and tablets, etc) have charging circuits that only draw a certain amount of amps regardless of the number of amps the charger provides. Using a 3.1 amp (tablet-level) charger is not going to significantly increase the speed at which your phone charges. Most phones only use between 0.8 - 1.2 amps. Anything over that is overkill.
8. Storing a lithium battery at 0% is really bad for its lifetime capacity. Running it to 0% generally isn't recommended all the time, but a few instances won't hurt it.
9. Recharging from 0-100 doesn't make your battery run longer. It can, however, reset Android's battery level stats so that it can more accurately state the battery level.
10. Charging from ~95% to 100% takes a long time because it must do a trickle charge. Maxing out the battery like this can reduce overall lifetime capacity, but generally not enough to matter. You'll see this impact more often in larger applications of lithium batteries (like cars).
11. Heat is the #1 killer of lithium battery capacity. The chargers are designed to regulate the heat of the battery to keep them from getting too hot for two reasons: explosions and reduced capacity. The former is obvious, but the latter isn't as much. If the battery is constantly running in a hot environment, especially when charging, it will kill the battery much faster than anything else listed here.
Alright, thank you very much.

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