[Q] Ryzmedia IR device universal remote dev??? - Android Apps and Games

Anyone hear if there's any development going on for use with the Ryzmedia IR device?? I'd find it much more useful on my Eris than my itouch. Here's the link to the device webpage, and some technical information that might be helpful:
ryzmedia (dot) com
compendiumarcana (dot) com/iraudio/
From MobileCrunch:
You could go to Radio Shack right now and build one for $5. $10 is very fair, especially for the time and love put into it.
Basically what it is is two IR led’s connected to the right and left polarities of the headphone plug. Those LED’s are actually flipped opposing each other. This is needed because the standard headphone output only does 0-20k per channel and the normal IR remote operates at 38k. By putting one side to each of the functional channels and having that built in modulation gives you the ability to generate a 40k signal.
So how you do it is:
1: Record the IR behavior using a IR detector connected to the ground-single channel at as high of bit rate as possible (usually just 41k or 48k on a normal lappy – may be up to 192k)
2. Clean signal to get pure digital square wave
3. Reassign the signal to play back at 19k on a single channel
4. Invert that same single channel and assign that to the other channel
5. When played through your headphone port using the appropriate equipment it will show up out of the LED’s as a properly modulated 38k signal just PERFECT for controlling your TV!
I made a learning version that basically had a 4-pole plug and used the Mic port for the IR detector. The hard part is in getting the signal, turning it to 1/0′s, changing to 19k, and running inverted signals on each channel. I haven’t actually gotten that far and made it to test some things, but recording off the mic port does seem to be good enough to clean up on a PC and have it work. Though hope that the App Makr for Android will at least help me get an actual interface instead of a playlist….
Got any android audio experts in the house?

Related

Infrared Hacking tool

I have had some nice times using my Universal to turn off those annoying 40" Pioneer plasmascreens which you find in almost all 7-11 and Deli DeLuca stores. Great fun, but i want to take the prank to a whole new level.
Read this, as it could be mighty fun (unless you get caught!!)
I would like someone to program a small tool which uses e.g. the IR database from NoviiRemote or similar to do a storm broadcast thru the IR on the PDA to send the IR signal for "turn-off-tv" for every single TV model possible. Then, I just have to walk around with my PDA in my hand in radio shack and all TV's are turned off.
However, it might look strange if I leave a trail of TVs being powered off wheverever I walk, so I thought I could make a little HW gadget to work around this I buy 10-15 IR diodes which I connect to eachother (and supply with the current they need) and then connect this cluster of IR diodes to the printboard on my PDA so that I get an external IR transmitter instead. Then I can leave my PDA in my pocket, and using a cable, I can put the IR transmitter on top of my head inside my hat
Would be incredibly fun. )))
Does anyone know if there exist such a program where I can make macros to autobroadcast "TV-OFF" signal for all known tv models ?
Put the LED's in a baseball cap then you can wear it with a full 360 coverage and pda in pocket - just a thought, but I like the idea! - Mike
on a slightly related topic.....
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/86/1
mikealder said:
Put the LED's in a baseball cap then you can wear it with a full 360 coverage and pda in pocket - just a thought, but I like the idea! - Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's somehow how I would do it, yes It would be fun to leave your Qtek9000 on a shelf in the TV> department at e.g. Radio Shack. Enable WLAN on the 9000 and then placing it so that the camera catches the whole scenario. Then, sit outside, connect via MS Portrait (or MSN or something) so you can see what's going on inside the store when you turn off/on all TVs while the salesmen run around frantically trying to find out whats wrong.
Would be a nice YouTube movie ;-)))))
0okami said:
on a slightly related topic.....
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/86/1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I could parallell couple e.g. 10-15 of the diodes to create a 360degree transmitter. Would require a small battery to power them I guess. But hey, that's no problem. Small coincell will do the trick. Small, nifty and exchangeable
All I need is someone that can create a program which just spew out IR codes to the IR diodes with ON/OFF/ON/OFF ...etc.
But, since I will be the only dork in the shop laughing my ass off, they might catch on to me )))))
another idea.. how about sending a signal to increase the volume?
where can i get the remote control software you said int he first post?

Suggestion to devs: audio to IR adapter + remote control app

I cant program, simply to dumb to learn it, but i had a idea that i think is worth spreading
Use the audio output jack, connected to a IR diode and write a app that uses audio bursts to control a ir reciever (tv, stereo and so on).
I dont know enough about the ir diodes to be able to tell how it should be wired together, but i figure a simple stereo plug, a resistor or two and a diode on top should suffice, and make the ir pulse by the audio signal pulses.
the audio output should be fast enough to transmit directly to the diode, if the voltage and signal strength is within ir specs.
So what do you (more tech skilled) guys think?
is it possible?
my android phone (htc hero) can do everything exept brew a decent cup of coffe and remote control my home media center, exept my xbox media center over wlan.
So a ir remote solution is the single most wanted feature that i dont have..
i figure my coffe maker is good enough for the time being..
edit..
i found a proof of concept, someone actually made this and got it to work on old nokia phones using a wav sound file, that he sampled using audio input on his computer.
http://jumpjack.wordpress.com/2008/06/10/turn-your-phone-into-an-universal-remote-control/
i would suggest that a ir sensor should be involved in the hardware, so the end user can program the buttons himself in the app.

Captivate TV Out?

Has anybdy tried this yet?
http://www.samsung.com/us/consumer/...index.idx?pagetype=prd_detail&tab=accessories
Just wondering how it worked. Too bad it's not HDMI.
I tried it, worked for me. You have to enable it first in the TV-Out settings, and the yellow wasn't really the video one on my cable.
yea, there was a video somewhere showing it working. Just buy a $3 3.5" to RCA cable from ebay or radioshack
Seached on Google and Amazon has one for $1.29
http://www.amazon.com/DCR-TRV50E-DCR-TRV900-DCR-TRV950-DCR-VX1000-DCR-VX2000E/dp/B003V8UB4I
Going to give it a try.
Worked fine for me, no problems at all! Quality was only OK but I'll try it again with a different video and see if that helps.
Is there a way to go from micro USB to HDMI or the jack to HDMI?
For the usb, no it has to have the wardware. For the jack, whats the point? The jack can only output standard definition video and going through hdmi would be pointless. You can use WiFi with DLNA to windows media center to play your HD.
caelestis2 said:
For the usb, no it has to have the wardware. For the jack, whats the point? The jack can only output standard definition video and going through hdmi would be pointless. You can use WiFi with DLNA to windows media center to play your HD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
except that I can't get DNLA to work Maybe I'll try another app that does the same as allshare
the video out works well, I'm glad that it doesn't use HDMI as I use it in my truck to my DVD/NAV system. It does seem that whenever I've connected the included ear buds to the phone I've had to go into settings and re-enable video out. No it's not high definition, but the quality is more than adequate for my purposes.
Battlehymn said:
the video out works well, I'm glad that it doesn't use HDMI as I use it in my truck to my DVD/NAV system. It does seem that whenever I've connected the included ear buds to the phone I've had to go into settings and re-enable video out. No it's not high definition, but the quality is more than adequate for my purposes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I plan on doing this exact same thing this weekend. I have the Alpine IVA-W205, and I think it would be cooler to have audio and video instead of just audio. Plus, I can actually see the navigation directions since I don't have Nav installed.
tikicult said:
I plan on doing this exact same thing this weekend. I have the Alpine IVA-W205, and I think it would be cooler to have audio and video instead of just audio. Plus, I can actually see the navigation directions since I don't have Nav installed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is a kenwood DDX-8019, and I have the external NAV
A couple things to keep in mind if you are going to use the phone as a NAV device in your car ...
1. Get long enough cables that you can set your phone where it has the clearest view of the sky possible. I set mine in the tray molded into my dash. Which leads to ...
2. If you use the included micro USB cable with a power adapter you should be fine, but the door that hides the connection on the phone may be too small for many aftermarket cables. I have one that is fine at home, but doesn't provide a secure enough connection for me to trust it on the road.
3. Maps in my area are not 100% accurate, the parking lot where I work used to be part of a highway that has been re-routed, however the map does not reflect this. I have also found that on the 2 times I've tested it on my route to and from work that it will not give a route that includes HOV lanes. (there may be a setting for this)
4. Download the app and enable the turn by turn voice ... but do not rely on it, until you've had some time to get comfortable with it. I've found during my testing that voice prompting comes a bit later than I like at highway speeds, though in and around town it was fine. I don't know if your DVD reciever will allow you to, but I can display the video from the phone and listen to audio from any other source I have available.
5. The only way I have been able to take a call while using the video out function on the phone was to disconnect the 3.5mm jack, it seems that the audio from a phone call is muted, as is the microphone. I guess if it did work there would be no reason for anyone with an aux video connection to buy a bluetooth reciever.
I do not intend to use this as my primary NAV in my own vehicle because my GARMIN reciever is purpose built for it and is far more precise/has more options. BUT ... I will not be renting anymore NAV units from enterprise when I have to travel.

What is a 'WWW' MCU? Anyone using USB Audio?

Hi,
I run a car audio firm, we have a PX5-based unit a client ordered.. The MCU version is "MTCD_WWW_V2.54b_2" .. Our goal is USB audio working proper, among a few other things (better interface if possible, better apps, better SQ stuff)
I haven't seen a "www" mcu anywhere? It's sold as an EONON GA7150A..
Anyone know anything about this MCU? If it's compatible with any others or anything like that? I definitely would like to root it, update the ROM to something better, get rid of the "Windows Mobile" part of it which was, IIRC, advertised as the ability to 'boot' between Android and Windows but is actually just a different interface theme from the home screen.. Also want to do whatever we can for sound quality and smooth experience.
I should note that, as a car audio company (in Canada), we are seriously considering producing our own Android units.. likely 'producing' would consist of getting units like a px5, branding them and primarily, having a SOLID software system built for automotive use. I think a lot of these units are a great start and are ALMOST there for a lot of things but..some of the interface stuff is rushed, not translated great, etc.
What I'd like to see is an Android unit, priced like these ones usually are, but with *really* good class A interfaces. The kind of experience you'd expect on a Samsung phone or a Pioneer headunit. I personally have been using my Samsung Tab S 8.4" in my car as my 'head unit' (paired with a Pioneer single din for a hardware volume knob and some easy control) for along time and I would not want to ever go back.
Here's a short video of the interface and version info..
My eventual goal is getting USB audio working decently. It does work for most Android apps but the volume control only controls the internal audio chip, and the radio app routes through the internal audio chip as well.. I assume perhaps other sources like DVD and line-in would as well, I haven't verified but I will pretty quick here. I plan on making another video showing what works/what doesn't/how it works.
I'm hoping for a software only solution but am happy to hack the hardware if needed. I'm using a Behringer UCA-222 as a "DAC" (same as 202 but red in color) but won't actually be using the DAC in it but only it's optical output into an Audison Bit 8.9 DSP/Amplifier.
There's the possibility of routing the px5's audio output RCA's to the Behringer's Input and 'monitoring' that input to the optical output via software but that doesn't solve the fact the volume control does nothing for apps when using the USB.. Eg, youtube plays through USB/optical fine but volume control doesn't change the volume..Radio plays through the px5's audio chip and volume control controls that, and shows on screen.. I could force everything to play thru the px5 audio chip and then monitor it to optical but that defeats the purpose of what I'm trying to do completely (full digital audio to the amplifier).
I'm willing to sacrifice some sources re-routed like that though, eg, the radio would be fine as it already sounds ****. Aux in also doesn't sound great usually and won't be used in this car anyway. DVD would be nice to have optical out as well but
I'm currently still searching for a schematic/block diagram for these devices, this would probably answer a lot of my questions like.. I'm curious whether audio from any of the other onboard devices (radio, dvd, aux in) go through Android at all or whether they're directly sourced to the output chip.
If it's the latter - that sucks - but I wouldn't be surprised. I have read the thread about the hardware hack to allow android control of the audio chip but I don't see this giving me the functionality I need. If it is wired like this, and I can get the other components (eg. radio chip) to output their audio to Android, digitally somehow and have Android push it to the USB audio device that'd be cool.
Is no one else using a USB dac on any of these units? I have many years experience coding, hacking, electronic engineering, tinkering, etc. including Android but I haven't done many of these Android Head Units.. A lot of times we use tablets instead! But this client wanted OEM look..so we thought we'd give it a shot.
The difference between the audio quality from the internal DAC and the USB audio device's optical routed directly to the DSP (digital to the power amp) is definitely noticeable, even with there being very little noise picked up in our interconnects.
Hi,
I can help you only with WWW MCU,
forbiddenera said:
Hi,
I run a car audio firm, we have a PX5-based unit a client ordered.. The MCU version is "MTCD_WWW_V2.54b_2" .. Our goal is USB audio working proper, among a few other things (better interface if possible, better apps, better SQ stuff)
I haven't seen a "www" mcu anywhere? It's sold as an EONON GA7150A..
Anyone know anything about this MCU? If it's compatible with any others or anything like that? I definitely would like to root it, update the ROM to something better, get rid of the "Windows Mobile" part of it which was, IIRC, advertised as the ability to 'boot' between Android and Windows but is actually just a different interface theme from the home screen.. Also want to do whatever we can for sound quality and smooth experience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tha same question (#1956) i read in this thread https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...-head-unit-discussion-thread-t3573881/page196
it should be KLD (klyde), you can read the answer in post #1959
Thanks for the pointer.
Hi,
I uses the newsmy carpad since 2 yrs with android box with wince interface and same issue of radio, bt and dvd being analog while the android side of things is 100% digital output via the included hdmi.
I put aside my alpine pxa-h900 and installed the helix dsp pro with auto switching of input with priority on digital input and use internet radio apps, android bt apps and plugged in an usb portable drive for dvd/cd.
Cheers.
Richard
Singapore

Hardware Development Enabling audio output on VW MkVI GTI w/ Dynaudio

I'm not sure this is the best place for this, but given how hard it was to find good information about this combination, I thought I'd put it here.
I purchased a M500S for my MkVI GTI, however when I installed it, I couldn't get any audio output. Searching the internet for how to use the stock amp with an aftermarket head-unit yielded lots of different information, most of it wrong. I talked to the vendor, but they were less than helpful, indicating that Dynaudio was unsupported with this head unit (true) and that VW used an optical signal to communicate between the head unit and amplifier (untrue). I saw a post from @COASTER19 regarding reading the steering wheel buttons on an Audi here, which looked awfully similar to my steering-wheel/gauge cluster, so figured I'd give it a go myself.
So I built hooked a cheap CAN bus controller to a Raspberry Pi, and analyzed my current (working head unit). I was able to determine that:
The media CAN bus runs at 100 kbps (as opposed to the drivetrain canbus which runs at 500 kbps)
The amplifier has an identifier of 0x6C7
The amplifier can be powered on/off via CAN bus commands
Once powered on, the M500S audio worked fine
The amplifier supports direct balance/fade commands (which may be useful some day in the future)
With this info, in hand, I made a simple circuit from an Arduino Pro Mini + MCP2515 module that is activated from the 'Amp Power' lead on the back of the radio. It simply replays the messages I snooped from the current head-unit, and now my M500S works perfectly with the stock Dynaudio amplifier/speakers. I don't currently send the fade/balance commands to the amp, so maybe the quality could be better, but that is a project for another day.
I have released the schematics, code and what CAN info I have on GitHub here.
In theory this project could completely replace the module that came with the unit and/or provide music/navigation updates on the gauge cluster as well, but that requires figuring out how to get that info out of the head unit, and I don't have the time to write an Android application to do so right now.
While trying to identify the CAN ids, I found this post by @hugovw1976
regarding a Golf 6 with some CAN bus commands: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/mtcd-kgl-px5-canbus-problem-with-vw-golf-6.3632690/post-73939457
That post identifies the following canids:
0x2C3: power on/off
0x635: lights on/off
0x470: doors open
0x35B: RPM
0x527: Speed and outside temperature
0x621: Wiper state and fuel level
0x65D: odometer
0x351: reverse and brake
0x571: battery voltage
0x151: seat-belt state
I didn't spend too much time investigating these, but I at least see some correlation with the battery voltage, door-open, and fuel-level canids, so they are probably accurate. However, I was not able to correlate the odometer, so probably further investigation is needed there.
AxesofEvil said:
I'm not sure this is the best place for this, but given how hard it was to find good information about this combination, I thought I'd put it here.
I purchased a M500S for my MkVI GTI, however when I installed it, I couldn't get any audio output. Searching the internet for how to use the stock amp with an aftermarket head-unit yielded lots of different information, most of it wrong. I talked to the vendor, but they were less than helpful, indicating that Dynaudio was unsupported with this head unit (true) and that VW used an optical signal to communicate between the head unit and amplifier (untrue). I saw a post from @COASTER19 regarding reading the steering wheel buttons on an Audi here, which looked awfully similar to my steering-wheel/gauge cluster, so figured I'd give it a go myself.
So I built hooked a cheap CAN bus controller to a Raspberry Pi, and analyzed my current (working head unit). I was able to determine that:
The media CAN bus runs at 100 kbps (as opposed to the drivetrain canbus which runs at 500 kbps)
The amplifier has an identifier of 0x6C7
The amplifier can be powered on/off via CAN bus commands
Once powered on, the M500S audio worked fine
The amplifier supports direct balance/fade commands (which may be useful some day in the future)
With this info, in hand, I made a simple circuit from an Arduino Pro Mini + MCP2515 module that is activated from the 'Amp Power' lead on the back of the radio. It simply replays the messages I snooped from the current head-unit, and now my M500S works perfectly with the stock Dynaudio amplifier/speakers. I don't currently send the fade/balance commands to the amp, so maybe the quality could be better, but that is a project for another day.
I have released the schematics, code and what CAN info I have on GitHub here.
In theory this project could completely replace the module that came with the unit and/or provide music/navigation updates on the gauge cluster as well, but that requires figuring out how to get that info out of the head unit, and I don't have the time to write an Android application to do so right now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I registered to this forum specifically to reply to your post. THANK YOU. I have just installed an aftermarket head unit and it went swimmingly until I discovered that it doesn't play nicely with my factory upgrade audio system. Then things went from bad to worse when I discovered that the Dynaudio/Fender amplifier is controlled via CAN, not just some 12V signal. I was going to reinstall the factory RNS510 and sniff the CAN bus when I came across this post and your github code.
I have not tried it yet, as I am hoping that the vendor (who is VERY responsive) will be able to integrate it right into the radio. Failing that, I'll be able to whip up a similar circuit to yours and be up and running. Thank you for sharing not just the code, but the technical details behind it. I truly appreciate it!

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