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Ok, I have a strange problem, and wondering if any of you have basic electronics knowledge.
I am trying to charge my blackstone on my motorcycle, but having some problems.
Setup:
- 12V cigarette lighter (power outlet) hooked directly to my battery.
I also have an inline switch and an inline 10A fuse.
- Standard USB car charger. (this charges my phone in a car just fine.)
Problem:
- It drains my phone battery very fast.
- I installed HomeScreen Plus so I could see the mA drain/charge on my battery. When I have the phone hooked to the bike and 'charging,' it reads +100 mA (charging) but the battery will drop down about 6% in about 5 minutes or less.
I am really confused by this...
Thanks for your time / input!
You should measure the amount of electric charge actually coming out from the outlet using a proper measurer.
is the battery in your bike good? ive seen bad batteries act this way. they seem normal and have the amps to start the bike but under any other load the voltage drops.
12.3V on the Power outlet and 4.9V on the end of the USB cable, which is why I am all the more confused.
I haven't tested the current yet, but that is slightly more difficult, as I have to disassemble it first. Although its not like I have any current limiting hardware in the way, its hooked directly to the battery (through the fuse)
Ill play around with it more tomorrow... :-(
If anyone has any ideas, let me know. Thanks!
Yea, the battery is good. Brand new. Cranks the bike and run all accessories just fine.
ryoojin83 said:
Yea, the battery is good. Brand new. Cranks the bike and run all accessories just fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's absolutly impossible that a bike's battery problem discharge your phone through the adapter.
I guess you should try another adapter.
I own a bike and i charge my diamond through a car to usb adapter too. The only problem i sometime ran into is that the phone get so hot that it disable the voltage input to preserve itself. It happen only when the phone is exposed to the sun through the plastic window of my tank bag.
I now own a bike "ram mount" with a native diamond holder, it's really great.
ryoojin83 said:
I haven't tested the current yet, but that is slightly more difficult, as I have to disassemble it first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It should be a problem with D+ D- pin, if your adapter is specific to a phone model...
try another adapter.
I have tried 3 USB chargers, and all of them do the same thing.
the phone connects with a standard USB cable (mini-a?) I have tried with 2 or 3 actual cables.
I am planning to head out to NAPA, to get a new 12V connector and rewire it. This time I am going to get the 'sealed' one... *sigh* I will let you know if I figure it out or not. Hopefully its not the switch I have wired in... 10A switch, so I doubt it
So I upgraded to the incredible. Left me with an extra eris around. I had a battery powered speaker with aux hookup. http://www.ihomeaudio.com/iHM10S/ . It has a wonderful shelf for leaving my eris in horizontal (landscape) mode so I can plug it into the charger and the aux port. I had an old multivoltage ac adapter that could output 6v 300ma. I got tired of switching batteries in the speakers, so I made some wooded dowels into fake batteries and put some screws/wires on the end of them. Now i have a perfect bedside clock/mp3 player that displays weather etc and plugs into the wall. Only thing i am trying to figure out is how to patch my usb charging cable into it so I only have one thing to plug into the wall. Since my voltage is adjusted at the transformer on the outlet plug, I dont think that part is gonna happen. It looks nice and I can still take out my fake batteries, put in real ones, and use my battery powered speakers. Thanks to google voice, wifi, and cm7 internet call settings, I now have a home phone for free too just thought I would share my quick little weekend project. Hopefully i can update with pics later.
I am thinking about ordering this:
http://www.amazon.com/G2x-T-Mobile-..._24?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1304350783&sr=1-24
But was wondering if I should spend the money and get a LG issued micro usb and car charger.
Anyone have experience with these chargers?
Hmmm that's alot of stuff for such a cheap price. Makes me wonder the build quality of that stuff. I might stay away from that. Just my opinion though. But to answer your question, I use a micro-usb cable I got from newegg. I also use the car charger I got with my MyTouch Slide a year ago.
First thing I thought was "too good to be true" and in my experience cheap stuff brakes stuff.
Yeah I think the quality of those accessories is probably quite low. If you want a good micro-usb cable I ordered 3 of these about a year ago and still use them today and they work fine on the G2x for data transfer and charging:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=micro_usb_cable-_-12-189-164-_-Product
I still have my micro usb charger I used for my blackberry curve (2 yrs old). I would assume that would work. I wonder if the old wall charger would work as well.
Those chargers are pretty much worthless. You need a high amp charger. The phone comes with a 1amp or 1000mA charger. If you buy a cheap charger that's 500mA for example you take more time to charge your phone. If the charger is really weak then you might not charge at all or even drop you battery levels while connected and using your gps in your car.
Note these are Blackberry and Motorolla OEM products that will work with your G2X. I use these and they are fine. They are both under $5 each at Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/BlackBerry-Fo...PN0S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304613708&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Vehi...Q9CA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304613757&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/BlackBerry-Cable-Micro-1-0m-Black/dp/B001QATRCA/ref=zg_bs_wireless_10
Cheap doesn't mean bad. All that stuff costs nothing to make anyways.
I buy stuff like that all the time off amazon.com.
I buy stuff like that all the time off amazon.com.
I can tell you you get what you pay for.
I buy stuff like that for coworkers and everthing is still working fine except car chargers breaking because of rough handling of the chargers. Evething else is alive and kicking.
If you decide to get it let me know how the car charger, Charges the phone, and make sure to post pictures because some times picture are diffrent from what is posted on the web.
I personally got this charger from T-Moble (granted, it was $30), 4.8v 1A... and integrated it into my car:
Code:
http://www.t-mobile.com/shop/AddOns/Accessories/AccessoryDetailPopUp.aspx?accessory=f2105fae-0bb1-47f2-b53b-a8acc9e98c56&inCart=True&catCode=-1
I removed the LED since it's hardwired to the car.
Grated, if you want to move the charger from car to car it's not ideal to hard-wire it... but eh.
Be careful what you buy.
I ordered a Micro-USB cable from an Amazon vendor. It was the one in this package:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XGBBY6
Package seemed good enough. Good deal. The case was serviceable (I won't use it fulltime, but for what I paid, I wasn't expecting much-- it's good for putting my phone in for when it's in the car, sitting on the dash, so that it doesn't slide around while I get GPS maps). The car charger works pretty well. But the USB cable...
I was experiencing battery drain from my phone while it was plugged into my desktop PC's USB with the aftermarket cable.
The next day I tried it with the one that shipped with my phone from LG and it works just fine.
For reals, has anyone experienced battery drain with an aftermarket cable while it was plugged in?
eatabagel said:
Be careful what you buy.
I ordered a Micro-USB cable from an Amazon vendor. It was the one in this package:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XGBBY6
Package seemed good enough. Good deal. The case was serviceable (I won't use it fulltime, but for what I paid, I wasn't expecting much-- it's good for putting my phone in for when it's in the car, sitting on the dash, so that it doesn't slide around while I get GPS maps). The car charger works pretty well. But the USB cable...
I was experiencing battery drain from my phone while it was plugged into my desktop PC's USB with the aftermarket cable.
The next day I tried it with the one that shipped with my phone from LG and it works just fine.
For reals, has anyone experienced battery drain with an aftermarket cable while it was plugged in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well typically USB doesn't have enough juice to power the phone while you are using it. It might in some cases but with WiFi, the screen, GPS, or whatever... you probably won't be charging the battery much if at all, and in fact might be losing power.
The same with USB chargers. The better chargers provide more power where most only provide the standard 5v (just like a desktop) so with heavy usage (GPS, screen, bluetooth) you might not gain anything.
I'm not sure about PC's because computers follow the standard of 5v and I don't think they will send more over the cable. A bad cable will have more resistance and probably not do as good of a job but overall should work.
The answer is any microUSB cable will work because it is a standard. Chargers (home and car) should provide more power to give it a faster charge.
Some Chargers are able to do "fast-charges" which I know the G2x can handle. I have a Microsoft Zune charger and it devastates my battery charge times. I'll be full in like 30min.
Typically batteries like a slow progressive charges though, which seem to last the longest. Oddly enough, I get the best battery life by charging my phone via my USB port on my Cable Box (haha).
As long as the charger's output is 5V then you're good. The higher the milliamp output on the charger the faster yourphone will charge.
Sent from my LG-P999 using XDA App
player911 said:
Well typically USB doesn't have enough juice to power the phone while you are using it. It might in some cases but with WiFi, the screen, GPS, or whatever... you probably won't be charging the battery much if at all, and in fact might be losing power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My phone charges just fine when I'm using while connected to my computer via USB.
It's the amperage that counts when it comes to filling up your battery. I've used .5, .6, .8 and 1 amp wall adapter and car chargers. The 1 amp charges much faster but, if I remember my USB spec, that's all that was allowed until Apple came along PCs are typically restricted to 500 milliamps (.5 amp) so it's a little slower but still enough to charge it., even under use. I suppose if you have GPS seeking satellites and the display turned up all the way you may draw more than 500 milliamps but I'd be surprised.
EDIT: if you're really interested in this stuff, check http://batteryuniversity.com/ and https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#Power
EDIT: SCROLL DOWN TO POST #12 WHERE I SHOW YOU HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN FULL-1900 mAh CHARGER!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=43663686&postcount=12
-=========================================
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
hello did you buy it?
CZ Eddie said:
Has anyone used this particular item before? Or can recommend a similar hard-wire unit that operates at 2A to 3A?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Connectors-Adapter-Recorder/dp/B00D6B6CJI
I'm thinking about getting one for my SUV and Motorcyle to charge the S4 at normal 1900 rates like the OEM wall-charger. Get that FAST charge.
Yes, I know about cig lighter chargers. No, that is not what this thread is for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
I ran it off the clock circuit (my clock is dead anyways) but any switched 12v source will do. It charges my car integrated Nexus7 without any issues, and at the faster rate.
I have another powering a servo and an aux USB port, but unfortunately I ran so much wire to get it into the center console by the handbrake it charges at USB rates.
paolopaulpaul said:
hello did you buy it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not yet.
Caferacer said:
I have this hardwired into my WRX:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDL-WaterPr...35?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item1c34627e83
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Just bought this one for $9 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-waterpr...34?pt=US_Power_Inverters_&hash=item3a7a051922
It's a waterproof box so it'll be better on my Motorcycle. I'll let you guys know how it works out by next week sometime.
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
CZ Eddie said:
Not yet.
Wow, that's a great price! Does it charge at ~1900 rates? Here is an app that will tell you the charging rate:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ccc71.bmw&hl=en
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
MonkeyTime said:
There was a thread somewhere that explained why some chargers won't do the 1900mah charge. He figured out where and what size resistors to put across the wires to enable it. I think it was in a car dock thread, I'll try and find it.
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Caferacer said:
shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
MichaelBR said:
There are some reasons why it won't work, and some ways to solve it. First, let's understand how it works:
The USB cable has four pins. The inner two pins are where the data goes through. THe outer, power.
When the USB cable is plugged in to a computer, the data pins are connected normally and the phone knows it can only draw certain amount of power
When the cable is plugged in to a charger, the two middle pins are shorted, and the phone knows that it's NOT going to be sendind/receiving data, so it can draw as much power as it can. That's why it charges faster with the charger than when plugged in to a computer
Most chargers short the two pins. Some cables have a switch to do that.
There are different cable cauges as well, with different power capacities.
Some USB chargers, notably car chargers and some low-end (i.e. not good brand) chargers that don't draw from the car/don't give the phone as much current as it needs.
So, if any of below, the phone won't charge, or won't charge fast enough. Or, worse: it may appear as charging, but actually losing battery charge!
Cable too long or incorrect gauge
Middle pins not shorted for some reason
Charger doesn't deliver enough current
And the solutions are:
Don't use cable extensions, cables that are too long. Stick with the cable that came with the phone or with the charger
Get a good car charger, that delivers the right amount of current
I imagine you just got the cable from your original wall charger and plugged it in to the car charger. If you did that, then chances are the cable is OK, and the charger is the culprit. If this is the case, then get a better charger. Check how much current that charger can deliver. Check how much current your device actually needs.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CZ Eddie said:
Yours is the second post I've seen where someone has shorted the data pins on a charging-only setup. Is there a reason for doing that?
Ehh, n/m. I remembered the "Google before you ask" mantra...
This explains it nicely:
http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s3/194362-wont-charge-over-usb-car.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Caferacer said:
That app won't show the mA on my N7 but does show it charging near the same % as a fast charger.
It's the shorting/grounding of the data pins that activates 'fast charge' mode on some phones. Nexus 7's and my E4GT (Sprint S2) when I used it didn't require the pins to be shorted to charge faster. Mostly it was the charger (duh) and the quality/length of the cable that affected the charge speed. As well, most of the heavy 1A plus chargers short the data pins in the charger itself so you can use any cable. I believe the S4 doesn't require it as well, but don't have any data to confirm it.
The way I wired mine was to sacrifice a USB female port from a USB extender, and attached the power leads and shorted the data leads. Figured it couldn't hurt. The converter doesn't care if it's putting out 500mA or 3A. It's not intelligent like some chargers in what current it doles out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Caferacer said:
To be clear, there is no indication it is *required* for the S4. Mine quick charges just fine without shorted data leads. However I did this because my friends have a variety of phones and it only took a few minutes to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I agree with what you posted in general terms, below is the link to the thread I was talking about. He did some testing and found the pins aren't just shorted, but shorted w/ 82K resistors to get the maximum charging current.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2274321
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it? Also If it does not damage would it be able to run the camera as a "blackbox" and not die? I currently have a 2a charger and when i use the black box software it dies after about an hour or so.
SUCCESS!
I got the little black box in from eBay.
Gave it a quick/test wire setup. This is NOT indicative of the end result which will be soldered & have shrink tubing, etc.
Okay, first I grabbed my stock S3 data/charge cable.
Snipped off the standard USB end.
Cut off the ends of the pin 2 & 3 wires since they were not being used anymore (data pins).
Then attached the red (power) from the S3 cable to the yellow (power) lead from the little black box. And did the same for the black (negative) leads.
Then hard wired the red & black from the little black box to my motorcycle battery terminals.
On the first test, I only got 460mAh.
Then I decided to short the 2 & 3 pin wires (green & white) on the S3 cable together (attach them to each other). This gave me 1120mAh!
Next I took the tin-foil and wire braid from the S3 cable and tied them together with the negative lead on the S3 cable. This gave me 1220mAh!
Still not satisfied, I then cut down the 5' S3 cable and made it a 1.5' cable.
AND THIS RESULTED IN A FULL 1920mAh!!!! Right on.
That is exactly the same mAh as the stock S4 wall charger & cable combo give me. Very stoked about this. So now I'll do a nice clean install on the bike and then duplicate it for my car dock sometime soon. FULL CHARGE AHEAD!
Crxdc said:
Will it damage the phone to have a 3A charger plugged into it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it will be fine. The phone only draws 1900mAh. If the phone were drawing 3000mAh then there might be a problem.
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
CZ Eddie said:
All done and installed now. And working great!
Negative battery connection (I forgot to shrink tube it but will do that later).
Braided negative wire (~16 to 18awg?) running under gas tank to front of bike.
I wish I would have waited till I got black zip ties in. I hate white zip ties.
The braided wire at the right side of pic that goes up above the gas tank is the pos/neg wire lead that plus right into the phone.
2A inline fuse connecting via blade connector (sorry MC) to a previously used power-on-ignition wire.
This goes to (+) on the little black box.
Note the shrink tube over the braid over the crimp connector (wire goes to top-right of screen).
Phone sitting next to the phone dock I made out of a holster that came with my phone case.
You can see the braided/shrink tubed MicroUSB connector already plugged into the phone.
It's not showing a charge though, because the ignition key is not turned on.
Phone is inserted into stable dock (it will never fall out unless I crash hard).
Ignition is turned on and battery is charging!
And proof that it's charging at the full 1900mAh. Success!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome.
Hard wire phone charger and Bluetooth Receiver to car battery plan...
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks good to me. :good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-USB-Ca...064?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51af639938
ebrowni said:
Hello,
I'm planning to install the following in my car along with new stereo head unit:
1) CraigsDocks Samsung Galaxy S4 docking charger, with USB power out
2) Rocketfish Bluetooth Music Receiver (with aptX), with DC 5V power out (connected to 3' 5V to USB power cable)
Plan to use this to convert (found on EBAY - I can't post links here in XDA yet/new user): Dual USB Cable Connectors Power Adapters 8-22V 12 V to 5V/3A DC Volt Converters... to connect directly to my car battery to power both the Samsung charger and the Rocketfish.
I'm new at this and I'm wondering if you all think this will work, or if I'm missing any steps, or if there are other better suggestions?
Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead. I personally wouldn't wire anything directly to the battery, especially since you didn't mention an inline fuse. Find a switched 12v lead inside the car. Not only does this protect your phone, charger, and car, but it also means you don't have to run anything through the firewall, which is a pain.
You can either tie into the cig lighter wiring, or find something else (I used my clock circuit since it runs to a 10A fuse and is switched).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
MonkeyTime said:
Your clock circuit is switched?
I agree with the firewall being a pita, but I'm not a huge fan of tapping on to other circuits either. With nothing charging, what would be drawing any current? If there's anything, it would have to be minimal. It also allows you to charge a phone/device with the car not running, sometimes very handy (and a modification I've made before for just that reason). An inline fuse is also a must, good point!
Sent from my de-Verizonized Galaxy S4, CleanRom style! (using Tapatalk beta 4)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, my clock circuit has a switched lead to wake up the clock as well as a hard wired lead to retain the time. Both run to the same 10A fuse.
There is a small transformer in the converter and the receiver bluetooth will stay on. They have a small energy draw which is not negligible over a long period of time. At the very least I would include a dash mounted switch to completely shut the charger and receiver off. For instance I have a bluetooth OBD adapter (Not too much unlike your bluetooth receiver) that drained a 2 year old car battery over a week I left the car sitting while I was on vacation. For day to day driving it's not a problem but my OBD adapter isn't hardwired and I can just remove it when I know the car will be sitting.
Thanks
Caferacer said:
Just realize that if you wire it to your batter there will be a small draw from the converter and chargers even when not in use. If you let your car sit for a week or long weekend you might come out to find the battery dead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oooh, good point! Makes sense to me. I have never done a mod to my car's audio system so I'll be paying a professional installer. I'm so glad to have this information before I shop around at the good places here and get some offers!
Thank you!
I'm looking for one that holds the entire phone, not just the battery. I would like it for my desk at work and not a Qi charger, but a USB dock.
The style I see on Amazon is the same one just dressed up by various vendors and may be OK, but I would like a very nice quality dock if possible.
Thanks!
Ouch. No response. OK, I may go ahead and try a "universal" charging stand, one that will hold my phone and my LG adapter. When I find the "right one", I will post back FWIW.
I bought this one, it's very good so far: http://www.amazon.com/Monoy-Dual-De...-1&keywords=Monoy-Dual-Desktop-Charger-Cradle
sanjsrik said:
I bought this one, it's very good so far: http://www.amazon.com/Monoy-Dual-De...-1&keywords=Monoy-Dual-Desktop-Charger-Cradle
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I have that in my cart still! How is the balance with the phone inserted? Can you use the touchscreen reliably while docked?
I did end up just receiving this stand:
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Stan...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01
I bought it with the included charger and cable since it was only a few cents more than without and I thought the 90 degree angled cord would be pretty cool, but it turns out that this cable will NOT work with the fast charger. It works with any brand wall plug as long as it is not a quick/fast charger. So, no biggie I guess. The stand is very sturdy and stable. I can use the touchscreen while docked without any issues. Totally not as convenient as having a drop in stand with a charger built in. I have to manually plug it in when charging is desired. So, for 10 bucks, I am keeping it and I may get the one you have for convenience sake.
emtownsend said:
I have that in my cart still! How is the balance with the phone inserted? Can you use the touchscreen reliably while docked?
I did end up just receiving this stand:
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Stan...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01
I bought it with the included charger and cable since it was only a few cents more than without and I thought the 90 degree angled cord would be pretty cool, but it turns out that this cable will NOT work with the fast charger. It works with any brand wall plug as long as it is not a quick/fast charger. So, no biggie I guess. The stand is very sturdy and stable. I can use the touchscreen while docked without any issues. Totally not as convenient as having a drop in stand with a charger built in. I have to manually plug it in when charging is desired. So, for 10 bucks, I am keeping it and I may get the one you have for convenience sake.
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Click to collapse
The one I bought also charges the second battery. That's why I got that one.