Database Info

Mini Overclocking Guide

Mini Overclocking Guide​
NOTE: The Steps Below were Tested on Froyo Roms. I have found different and perhaps better ways to test stability with CM7 Roms so I added a section for that too.
You can still use Stability Test but I don't use it too often anymore for CM7.
Programs Required for testing:
#1 Stability Test
#2 Neocore (please note that some kernels are not FPS unlocked meaning that the frame rate will not go over 56fps so make sure to compare apples to apples when testing different kernels).
For overclocking/undervolting you can use either Pimp My CPU or Voltage Control
Intro:
I posted this Guide in ROM thread but decided it might help someone trying to get a head start overclocking...just a reference not a bible.
First of all, please realize that no two CPUs are created equal. Just like with PC Overclocking, there is the luck of the draw involved here so just because one person can do 1.4Ghz it does not mean you will be able to do so nor it means that my UV settings will work for you.
Achieving 1.2Ghz should be feasible for almost all users since most of the code for it was already done by Samsung themselves. After that point though, it is a matter of luck. Many users can do 1.3Ghz but getting into 1.4Ghz the chances of stability drop dramatically.
Please note that with CM7 Roms it seems a LOT more people is able to hit 1.4Ghz and even 1.5Ghz fully stable. 1.6Ghz is also working although not as common. It is easier to use it if you select 1.6Ghz as the ONLY frequency but of course battery life will be affected.
So, start at 1.2Ghz and try to achieve stability with the lowest possible UV settings you can get to improve your battery life then when fully stable, go for a bit more speed if you like until you find your limit.
Process:
The following is the process I use to get 100% stability. Of course, you can use your own or tweak as you like as this is hardly the ONLY TRUTH of overclocking…I just hope it gives you a good idea on how to achieve stability.
I normally use these settings for 1200Mhz:
1200Mhz @ -100
1120Mhz @ -100
1000Mhz @ -100
900Mhz @ -100
800Mhz @ -100
400Mhz @ -100
200Mhz @ -100
100Mhz @ -100
After setting those up , click the Apply Now button but do not save to the Boot settings until you are sure they are stable for you.
To check stability I first run the Stability Test program and let it loop about 30 times or at least 20 of the CORE (not the RAM).
If it fails give it another shot if it fails again then it is time to adjust the voltages for 1200Mhz.
My experience has been that Stability Test crashes to the home screen when it needs more voltage so if it crashes for you change the UV to -75 and test again.
When you are able to pass that test , you can go to Neocore and try looping Neocore and let it running for about 5 to 10 minutes.
If Neocore freezes, at least for my phone, it means that voltage is too high so I need to drop the UV.
Right there is where the whole trick is. Trying to find what UV voltage is enough for Stability Test to pass but still low enough so that Neocore does not freeze.
This takes a lot of trial and error specially when going for 1.4Ghz!
Another thing is that the UV setting for the frequency below the one you are going for, like 1120 and 1000 for example, do have an effect on the stability you are trying to achieve on 1200Mhz because the phone does not seem to like big voltage jumps .
Some times changing the voltage for the frequency below the one you are adjusting is a good way of achieving stability.
This becomes more important when for example you find out that changing 1.2Ghz to -50 gives you stability for Stability Test but then you need -75 in order to pass Neocore test. What do you do then? What I have done with relative success is , use -75 but then increase the voltage to the frequencies below 1200.
For example if I had
1200Mhz @ -75
1120Mhz @ -100
1000Mhz @ -100
I would change it to:
1200Mhz @ -75
1120Mhz @ -75
1000Mhz @ -75
then test Stability Test to see if those changes help you pass it without having to increase the voltage for 1.2Ghz directly thus avoiding the Neocore freezing issue.
Another process some users are doing is just run Neocore for about 30 minutes and it seems to be a good alternative for some. Guess it all depends on your particular phone.
So, as you can image, this means a LOT of trial and error and restarts of your phone. For 1.2Ghz it should be painless but if you want to go higher, prepare to do a lot of the steps above.
Another thing to consider is that some phones seem to work better with kernels that only have one top speed after 1Ghz as opposed to kernels that offer multiple speed options so this is yet another variable to work with.
Also, remember that to restart your phone, there is no need to pull out the battery. Just press and hold the Volume Up and Power button and it will restart.
I am sure this guide can be done a lot better and will be glad to add or edit with any recommendations you can offer.
I hope this helps some of you trying to push your phones to the limits and have fun!
UPDATE for CM7 Users
With CM7 what we considered THE holly grail of speeds, 1.4Ghz with Froyo Roms suddenly became a VERY common thing.
I have no explanation as to why but a LOT of users are able to get 1.4Ghz and even 1.5Ghz perfectly stable on CM7 and the phones just fly at those speeds. Some are also able to get 1.6Ghz stable but that is harder.
Setting only one speed like 1.6Ghz dramatically increased the stability as well. Just a hint for you guys wanting to do some benchmarks.
You can use a program like Pimp My CPU or Voltage Control to set the voltages and the Maximum and Minimum speed.
Now while the Steps at the beginning of the guide (for Froyo roms) should be fine for CM7 as well ...I have noticed, at least with my phone , that a video player called Moboplayer is VERY good for stability testing CM7. In fact, I do not even use Stability Test any more since I moved to CM7.
When the voltage is a bit low on my screen it creates some artifacts, usually green spots that come up and go in random areas until it freezes.
My actual favorite player for CM7 is Dice Player because for me it plays 720p files better but I like moboplayer a lot as well specially because of the artifacts it shows when I am not stable so it is a quick way to tell the settings are not going to work.
Another thing I love to use if the Riptide Game (tegra 2 game) with Chainfire 3D plugin to make it work on our phones. That game will just close without warning when my speed is unstable. So I just let it running the demo on its own for about 10 minutes.
So basically, I use Moboplayer and Riptide to test my stability and with those tests my system is ready to go and takes less time than the steps I used to do.
Of course you can come up with your own preferred tools since our phones are quite unique and seem to have their own personalities.
It seems some users are having luck with my settings so here are my settings for 1.6Ghz This is for GLITCH kernel (V10C VC). Remember that each kernel has different voltages so instead of giving you a minus value like -100 I will give you the actual voltage I am using for each speed.
1.6Ghz - 1425mV
1.5Ghz - 1400
1.44 - 1325
1.4Ghz - 1325
1.3Ghz - 1275
1.2Ghz - 1275
1.0Ghz - 1200
800Mhz - 1100
400Mhz - 950
200Mhz - 850
100Mhz - 850
For Governor I normally just have Smartass and the Scheduler is NOOP.
Not that while for 1.6Ghz my current setting is either -50 or -75, if I were to select only 1.6Ghz as my max and minimum speed, I am then able to lower the voltage to -100 perfectly stable. Just an interesting thing for you to play with.
Important Note for CM7 users getting many FCs like google service or android service.
CM7 has a much smaller data space for application installs and every time I get to that limit my phone gets crazy with FCs. You can check that by going to your applications and launching the TERMINAL application then type df (in lower case) and pressing Enter.
Look at the top table listed for /datadata and make sure you have some available space.
As long as I keep that from filling up (in fact I prefer to keep it around 60% max to give me some room) my phone works like a charm.
You can use an app like APP2SD to move application data to the SD card to free up space.
Have fun and enjoy your pumped up phone!
UPDATE 12/30/2011
CyanogenMod 9 (ICS) users with Glitch kernel using LiveOC you can use my settings as a starting point.
This is what I use for 1603Mhz
Voltages:
ARM voltage
from 1500 to 1200 = 1.5V ; 1000 = 1.375V ; 800 = 1.250V ; 400=1.100V ; 200=950mV ; 100=900mV
Int from 1400 to 1200 = 1.2V ; 1000 = 1.15V ; 800 = 1.125V ; 400=1.100V ; 200=1.100V ; 100=1.000V
Then 123% LiveOC using 1300MHz step (giving you 1.6GHz)
Governor I am still testing but usually Smartass V2
You can of course use it as a starting point for lower speeds if you like.

Nice man. Saves alot of frustration with this.

Awesome! Thank you!

You are the OC master, Shaolin.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk

I wish I was a master indeed but I just have a lot of patience I guess to test ..and test...and crash..an test some more

I think I saw a post that said that any temperature below 56 degrees Celcius is fine for the captivate. I still start to worry though if it reaches 50 during a stability test, what's your opinion?

I noticed that mine when it its 50C or so for any reason (battery temp IIRC) it stops charging so that is where I normally draw the line. If I cannot keep it under that I dont feel comfortable.

That 50 is pretty high, at least for me. Even with stability test going for an hour or so at 1400, I only hit 46. Haven't seen anything higher
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA Premium App

Depends on ambient temp of course...you cannot compared devices temps without knowing the ambient temp. In any case, I saw that when I was using the first Trident kernel. That one even made my screen feel very hot...kinda scary lol
Right now, the only app I have that makes my phone stop charging, even when temp is low, is the Justin TV viewing app....weird. I even ran the phone at 600Mhz only to make sure.

AReynante said:
That 50 is pretty high, at least for me. Even with stability test going for an hour or so at 1400, I only hit 46. Haven't seen anything higher
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA Premium App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was testing out 1500 1400 is fine for me with -100 for each value. 1500 is a different story since I haven't managed to find a stable combination yet (that doesn't reach 50 degrees Celcius).

Sweet. Are you getting to 50C with a specific app? I only get there with some streaming apps but I really only use 1.5 for fpse emulator for example.

I don't have an app that tells me the temperature so the only time I know is if I do a stability test. I'm not sure if I really have a need for 1500MHz since I don't use emulators much but it's more of a "yea my phone can do it" kind of accomplishment - unless I'm missing out on some other benefits of 1500Mhz over 1400Mhz besides possibly more smoothness.

zuN! said:
I don't have an app that tells me the temperature so the only time I know is if I do a stability test. I'm not sure if I really have a need for 1500GHz since I don't use emulators much but it's more of a "yea my phone can do it" kind of accomplishment - unless I'm missing out on some other benefits of 1500Ghz over 1400Ghz besides possibly more smoothness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol 1.5 terahertz I want that phone!

studacris said:
Lol 1.5 terahertz I want that phone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow didnt notice that....thats Fing awesome!

Stability Test question
Hey Shaolin,
Just a quick question here, when you mention running stability test through 30/50 runs, are you referencing the RAM runs or the core runs? Just checking, since the RAM runs complete within a few minutes whereas the core runs take closer to half an hour, etc.
Thanks for posting the guide, much appreciated!!!

Since the new version I am only doing 30 of the core runs since it seems to take longer than before.
You are welcome amigo

shaolin95 said:
Since the new version I am only doing 30 of the core runs since it seems to take longer than before.
You are welcome amigo
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey mate, maybe you can add this to your guide as I thought before that stability test and several runs of new core, nenamark, etc...that after passing those tests you're probably stable but what I found out that I can pass those tests without problems and just recently those test are not enough for you to be sure if you are really stable what I have found is to run or record in your phone video cam in its highest resolution about 720p for 200mb worth of data if your phone won't freeze then it's pretty stable you can delete those files afterwards.

Indeed each phone and user can find specific things that work for them, for example with my phone I can just use mobo player and play some videos and I get artifacts when voltage is low or I had a game that with low voltage will always freeze at the same spot yet some user do not have the same effect.
I guess I can add a small list of other possible quick tests like that video one you mentioned as alternatives

I found out another way to test stability which is to do a batch operation of backing up apps with TiBu. I'm not sure what it implies if it crashes though

Hi shaolin95, can I link this post in my VoltageControl thread? (with credits ofc)

[GUIDE] Undervolting, The Right Way

It seems alot of people dont know the proper way to undervolt their phones, so I'm gonna try to help out! This is my first attempt at a guide, and i tend to ramble so just tell me if it makes no ****-for-sense
Undervolting is great, it allows us to change the voltage in our phones while we use it! this can really increase battery life and reduce heat in the phone. but if its not done right, it causes many more problems than it fixes.
When you are following this guide you WILL have issues! This is not a generic disclaimer, it is the TRUTH! the goal here is to find out where your phone stops working, and you cant do that without causing it to STOP WORKING.
once again: THIS WILL MAKE YOUR PHONE FREEZE, IT WILL HAVE AWFUL BATTERY LIFE, AND IT WILL MAKE BAD THINGS HAPPEN​
But after its all done it should work much better
To start off, too much or too little voltage in the phone causes any number of things including:
Reboots (Screen Off and Screen On)
Lagging
Phone Overheating (Hot to the touch)
Reduced Battery Life (this includes the phone using more power, as well as reducing the battery's ability to hold a charge)
'Strange' issues with things shutting off/not working (WIFI, Bluetooth, your favorite app, ect...)
Many other 'weird' things
If you are having any of the above issues, and you are using a custom kernel, they may be caused by inproper undervolting.
THIS CAN BE THE CASE EVEN IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE ANY UNDERVOLTING YOURSELF!!!
Most custom kernels have undervolting build into them, and even 'stock voltage' versions allow overclocking, and those frequencies have no 'safe' voltage associated with them.
How to Properly Undervolt your Phone:​
*this assumes you have no idea where to start, if you have some past experience, USE IT!!!*
First, Undervolting a phone the right way is not a quick job, like most things in life the more time you put into it the better your end result will be. For me i like to take an ENTIRE WEEK OR MORE to get all my settings down right. whenever you decide to do this, expect any and all of the issues i listed above to happen while you are trying to find the right settings.
Step 1: Starting Fresh​
Disable all overclocking, undervolting, AND PROFILES on the ROM, you need to get the stock speeds working before you try to push the phone to its limit.
This will be your baseline. Use the phone like you normally do, text, call, surf the web, even let it sit in your pocket for a while. Do this for as long as you need to to be sure that everything is stable.
If you have any issues during this stage. STOP! add +25mv to every frequency across the board and start over. Do this up to 3 times if necessary, if after you have added +75mv to your stock voltage and you are still having issues, it is most likely something else in the rom causing the issue (rogue app, wrong kernel version, phone was dropped in the toilet too many times...) try to fix that first, or just try to ignore the issue, its up to you.
Otherwise, if everything is stable, Continue to step 2!
Step 2: Start Lowering Voltages​
Lower all of the voltages by -25mv across the board. (If your phone needed any voltage added over stock to be stable, skip this step.)
This is where you begin testing the waters. Once again use the phone like normal, including some screen off time, as well as some CPU intensive tasks (playing music while websurfing, gaming, ect.)
If your phone is still stable after a good amount of time, then do it again. Your looking for the moment when things start to go wrong.
When you notice your first random reboot, or you start to feel the phone getting hot, or not responding STOP! you found the limit of your phone. Go back to the last working voltages you have and use them for step 3.
The more time you spend at this step the better your overall result will be! if you dont get any symptoms in an hour, they might show up later in the day, or overnight. Just take your time and have some patience.
Step 3: Lowering Voltages Independently​
Now that you have a stable working phone. you can start lowering voltages one by one!
Starting with the lowest frequency, lower the voltage by -25mv.
Run this for a while, until you feel it is stable. Then move to the next highest voltage and do the same.
*If you have any issues, undo ONLY that frequency!!! Write down that frequency somewhere. you are done with it! you know that frequency is stable, and you shouldn't need to touch it again!!!
Keep doing this till you get to your stock maximum frequency, then continue to step 4!
*NOTE:* if any 2 voltages have more than a 100mv difference (125mv difference on Morfic's Kernels) between them, you need to raise the others around it to be equal or less than that. For exampe:
if at 1ghz, the phone is at 1000mv and at 1.2ghz the phone is at 1150mv. the higher one needs to be lowered (set 1.2ghz to 1125mv). if that is not stable for you then you must raise the lower one higher (set 1ghz to 1025mv).
Step 4: OVERCLOCKING!​
At this point you should have a completely stable phone with no overclocking, grats! Now you get to start raising the frequency.
starting with the next highest frequency, set it to its stock voltage. if this is more than 100mv (125mv for Morfic's kernels) more than the previous frequency, set it to 100mv (125 for morfic) more than that.
run this until it is stable, and keep reducing it as much as you feel until you find instability. set it one step higher and move on to the next highest frequency.
if, after setting the voltage to 100mv (or 125mv) more than the last one, it is not stable, you need to raise the lower frequency's voltage up. sometimes this can cause a chain reaction that makes you raise 3, 4, or even all of the other frequencies up, if this happens you need to decide if that frequency is worth it to raise all the other frequencies to the next level.
If all is running good, proceed to step 5!
Step 5: The part where you hate me ​
(this step is optional, its just something i do to help with stability)
Now that you have a fully overclocked phone that is running as low of a frequency as it can safely, raise all of the voltages up by +25mv!
yes yes, i know, it sounds retarted to just undo that hard work and all that time you just put into finding the perfect voltages, but just hear me out.
Even if you spent a week on each step, did everything perfectly and tested everything you ever do on your phone and it is all completely stable. one day you are going to do something that will push the phone, which is running at its limit. so by adding 25mv to everything you are giving yourself some insurance. you may loose some battery life (i honestly don't ever notice a change with only 25mv) but when your phone alarm goes off in the morning to get you up for class, or you get that call you got that job you wanted, just be happy its not frozen on the table, or black screened in your pocket.
There you go! you should now have a stable phone with great battery life, and now you can stop bugging the devs about 'that strange reboot that is still there' or 'how every time you use his kernel you get black screens'
To Long; Didn't read Version:​
If your having issues with your phone and you think its related to UV, and your much too busy/lazy/cool to read the above, try this: (Results will most likely be worse...)
Set (all of) your lowest voltages to 775mv (or 750 if you think your phone can do it)
Set your 1ghz voltage around 1000mv (give or take 50-100mv)
Set the highest speed to no more than 100mv below its stock seting.
Set the rest of all the speeds below 1ghz on a line between it and the lowest, and after 1ghz on a line between it and the highest. ex(From Morfic's T15 Kernel):
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Post any questions or feedback you have, ill try to answer it as best i can!

Truly a great guide. I agree mostly with the last part, my alarm stopped ringing two days in a row, so I added 25 mv across the board, and it works perfectly. Thank you on behalf of the community, everyone will appreciate this guide for sure.

Helped fix an overheating problem!
Sent from my LG-P999 using XDA

This is done using setcpu?
Sent from my LG-P999 using XDA

imoumni said:
This is done using setcpu?
Sent from my LG-P999 using XDA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any CPU managing app. I use CPU Master but there's lots more options out there. I don't use SetCPU because it took nearly a year to update.
Sent from my amazing LG G2x running Bionix Reloaded v1.4

Klathmon said:
*NOTE:* if any 2 voltages have more than a 100mv difference (125mv difference on Morfic's Kernels) between them, you need to raise the others around it to be equal or less than that. For exampe:
at 1ghz, the phone is at 1000mv if at 1.2ghz the phone is at 1200mv. the higher one needs to be lowered (set 1.2ghz to 1175mv). if that is not stable for you then you must raise the lower one higher (set 1ghz to 1025mv).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
First off, thanks for this guide. I do rely on my phone's alarm clock pretty regularly so I'll have to start setting another alarm clock while I do this. Also, consider posting this in Android General to reach a larger audience.
My only question: I understand what you're saying, but I think your example may be incorrect. 1200mV - 1000mV = 200mV difference, so you would need to change one or the other by 75 to 100mV, right?

This is done using setcpu?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It can be done with any app that works with this phone.
I use an app called "System Tuner Pro" because it allows you to add voltage from stock settings (my phone seems to like a minimum voltage of 775 vs the 750 that most kernels start with) and im not sure any more but i think its free...
r4d14n7 said:
My only question: I understand what you're saying, but I think your example may be incorrect. 1200mV - 1000mV = 200mV difference, so you would need to change one or the other by 75 to 100mV, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks, yeah thats what i meant to say
All Fixed

Klathmon said:
It can be done with any app that works with this phone.
I use an app called "System Tuner Pro" because it allows you to add voltage from stock settings (my phone seems to like a minimum voltage of 775 vs the 750 that most kernels start with) and im not sure any more but i think its free...
thanks, yeah thats what i meant to say
All Fixed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problemo. Looks like System Tuner is free but the Pro version is $3.99. How is it on resources? That's the only thing that worries me about these jack-of-all-trades apps.

r4d14n7 said:
No problemo. Looks like System Tuner is free but the Pro version is $3.99. How is it on resources? That's the only thing that worries me about these jack-of-all-trades apps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it keeps a service running all the time, but is very CPU friendly, and wont hog resources. So far it hasn't been a problem for me at all.
and just for full disclosure; the dev is a close friend of mine, so i may be a bit biased
EDIT: added a quick "help im lazy" version for people that dont want to put the time/effort into doing it the right way.
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk

thanks for this

Thank you, this was very helpful!

Thanks for taking the time to make a great post.
I just started to OC/UV my G2X. I will use this as a guide.
-Thanks again

a noob question, Whats the difference between an app (eg, setcpu, pimpmycpu etc etc) lowering the voltage for you and "one doing it via your guide"

cricketAC said:
a noob question, Whats the difference between an app (eg, setcpu, pimpmycpu etc etc) lowering the voltage for you and "one doing it via your guide"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not really sure what you mean, to the best of my knowledge, no programs out there automatically undervolt for you. you use those programs to reduce or increase the voltage in each frequency yourself.
Hope that helps

Klathmon said:
not really sure what you mean, to the best of my knowledge, no programs out there automatically undervolt for you. you use those programs to reduce or increase the voltage in each frequency yourself.
Hope that helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry, my bad. I just flash faux kernel. I thought all frequencies worked at the same voltages (silly me!) lol. Thatswhy when i saw there were different voltages for every frequency, i thought this guide was about that. (i.e i thought faux already did it for us in his kernel). lol
If my phone is stable at the current voltages that came with faux kernel, should i still try lowering them?
How much of a battery life can i get if i lower them by -25mv?
Lets say, i flash another kernel in the future and then reflash any oc/uv later on. Do i have to do these steps again or just simply input the (uv)values which i get after doing it right now?

cricketAC said:
sorry, my bad. I just flash faux kernel. I thought all frequencies worked at the same voltages (silly me!) lol. Thatswhy when i saw there were different voltages for every frequency, i thought this guide was about that. (i.e i thought faux already did it for us in his kernel). lol
If my phone is stable at the current voltages that came with faux kernel, should i still try lowering them?
How much of a battery life can i get if i lower them by -25mv?
Lets say, i flash another kernel in the future and then reflash any oc/uv later on. Do i have to do these steps again or just simply input the (uv)values which i get after doing it right now?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its up to you. personally, i would follow the "if its not broken, dont fix it" rule. if your happy with the current battery life, and you like the stability, no need to change it. But if you really want to go for broke, and squeeze every last bit of battery life out of this phone, then by all means go for it (you can ALWAYS undo it all) although -25mv most likely wont make much of a difference.
and to the second question, as long as its the same kernel, the same values should be alright, but each kernel is different. (i can get -50mv more on faux123's kernels, but i get better battery life on Morfic's even with the higher voltage)

Since we all have the same phone couldn't we all use the exact same voltages? and are the ones pictured yours?

noxary said:
Since we all have the same phone couldn't we all use the exact same voltages? and are the ones pictured yours?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Voltage depends on the chip (CPU) you have - every chip is different. you need to try playing with it according to what your chip can endure.

Klathmon said:
its up to you. personally, i would follow the "if its not broken, dont fix it" rule. if your happy with the current battery life, and you like the stability, no need to change it. But if you really want to go for broke, and squeeze every last bit of battery life out of this phone, then by all means go for it (you can ALWAYS undo it all) although -25mv most likely wont make much of a difference.
and to the second question, as long as its the same kernel, the same values should be alright, but each kernel is different. (i can get -50mv more on faux123's kernels, but i get better battery life on Morfic's even with the higher voltage)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I end up squeezing every bit of juice, wouldn't that make my charger life short?

This guide needs a sticky!
Thank you for taking the time to write this.

ICS Overclocking Resources/Guides - Heat issues Kernel tests Post your experiences -

Here's a response from a PM i recieved about my Antutu benchmark scores. This is meant to be a reference to others who are working to squeeze optimal performance out of their captivates.
Hi, want to know what setting you do to reach more than 4000 points on antutu bench xD i just cant go more than 3800
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Overclock at your own risk!
I am not responsible to any damage to your phone
I've had lots of experience over clocking desktops computers, I started when I was 14 years old or something. I am very happy to share my experiences here with my captivate.
Here's what I've been using to test the stability and speed of each incremental change: https://play.google.com/store/apps/...chMark&feature=nav_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwyLDNd
It's Antutu Benchmark.
Some may not like Antutu, and that's understandable, it's just the standard i have used to compile my testing results. if you have a better app to use suggest it!
The highest Antutu score i was able to achieve was 4044 when i was on 1.508 ghz. running Devil .86
Recomendations/Results:
I've been testing mostly stock settings between devil .86 and semaphore 1.2.5sc and devil keeps coming out on top with it's scores. not trying to start a war, but devil is just faster. don't get me wrong i love semaphore.
I am using Slim ICS 4.1, it's been the most stable ROM for me so far, if somebody can post their results with a different ROM and kernels then i gladly support it!
Slim: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1517486
Tests between Semaphore 1.2.5.sc and Devil .86
I had both semaphore and Devil running live OC of 116% and after each test devil kept winning by about 50-80 points.
I recommend the Devil Kernel by DerTeufel1980, DerTeufel1980 is very helpful and supportive, he also turns out updates like a machine!
The devil kernel supports increasing frequency as well as live OC. It also has so many other cool features that make it fast(like GPU overclocking). This is why I recommend this kernel for Overclocking speed and stability.
His kernel is here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1642460 Sometimes he posts a downloadable release in the middle of a page so you usually have to search for it.
Advice/Settings
Overclocking to high stable frequencies, and having the least apps active is the key to getting the highest overclocking scores with Antutu.
To get scores over 4000 I use this set up:
My settings, SIO, Conservative governor, Frequency at the 1300mhz step, live OC at 116%(this yielded 1.508ghz). I had UKSM on(whether on or off didn't seem to make a difference during my tests), i had the GPU overclocked to 250mhz. I was using the XL mem version (391mb ram).
I had intended on running more tests on the big mem version but the constant reboots got tiresome, if anybody wants to take this up I'll gladly support it.
Crashes: Crashes are inevitable when testing. sometimes you get lucky and only the app crashes, most of the time though you will get a frozen screen or a few seconds followed by a reboot. depending on your kernel some may reset your settings. Use NS tools and save a setting that you know is stable and save your test settings so you can start from where you left off.
Voltages: the key to stability!
BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN YOU ADJUST YOUR VOLTAGES! too much is harmful to your chip!! Heat and overvolting is harmful!
these are my voltages:
Arm voltages
1400mhz it's 1.475
1300mhz its 1.450
Int Voltages
1400mhz it's 1.25
1300 it's 1.225.
The rest is stock. If anybody has found stable underclocking for the lower frequencies please post them here.
Live OC:
Something strange i noticed was that whenever i would do a odd numbered live OC i would get major instability... 116% was much more stable than 115%. weird huh? also i am pretty much unable to get a stable live OC of more than 116 regardless of the frequency step. Each phone will have it's own stability limit for Live OC. Some phones can go all the way up to 130%, but that's rare.
the key is to keep finessing it and carefully and incrementally change things till you find a nice sweet stable spot, other phones can achieve more live OC.
My favorite Fast Stable Safe setting:
My phone is almost always on this setting for everyday use: SIO, Conservative, Freq OC at 1200 and Live OC at 116% yielding 1.392ghz. with a bit of voltage increase this has become my favorite setting, i always use this setup.
Some may balk at my use of the conservative governor, I Love it actually, CPU spy reports that the conservative governor barely ever uses the highest step for regular usage. Which is great because you don't need the highes step to be running all the time as most actions don't require it, the less high voltage you send to the chip the better. It also helps with battery life.
HEAT!!!!
Warnings about heat. voltage increases mean more latent heat. your phone is a closed system so the heat gets locked in easily... Warm is allright(not wonderful) any hotter than warm and you need to take steps to manage the heat. I've found two easy ways to deal with it, aside from putting it in my refrigerator lol
For stress testing I ussually have the battery cover off, one less thing to get hot.
One simple way to manage it when you feel the sd card slot warm is to press the SIM/Sd slot to your lips and blow air through the phone, this will help cool it down. another way to manage the heat is to do this
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I borrowed a cooling fan from my gaming computer and set the phone up on it with the battery cover off. this really helped keep it cool.
Also, never leave your phone sitting in the sun on a hot day, I don't know why you would in the first place. But just don't.
Higher scores are achievable... just keep tweaking things.. I deleted all my user apps so nothing would run in the background and that did helps my scores a bit.
Also airplane mode prevents unwanted texts form interrupting testing. that way the phone can focus only on the task at hand
I bet wiping the SD card would improve read/write speeds incrementally...
If somebody wants to research this please post it here
Please read this before you post "results"
Please run at least 2 or 3 tests to sort of average the scores before you post about a result. This will help keep information clean of errors that can affect test results.
for example when i was doing a 1.392ghz test on Antutu, during the knights hacking thier swords scene a glitch happened and my frames per second shot up to 102 fps. It occurred for a few seconds but it was enough to offset the scores A LOT. I got a 4185 on 1.392ghz which doesn't seem possible. consequently I hold the #6 score listed for the captivate :laugh:
This is why I say get an average for the scores. with my 1.392ghz set up i tend to get scores ranging from low 3800's to high 3900's
Remember each phone is different!
Have fun tweaking!
Hope this helps!

Hi.
Thanks for sharing.
My undervolting values are:
100 Mhz = 800
200 Mhz = 850
400 Mhz = 950
800 Mhz = 1125
1000 Mhz = 1225
1200 Mhz = 1300
The attachment is a graph with my experiments to find a fast and stable configuration. The red line is my best so far.

BitteredBro said:
Hi.
Thanks for sharing.
My undervolting values are:
100 Mhz = 800
200 Mhz = 850
400 Mhz = 950
800 Mhz = 1125
1000 Mhz = 1225
1200 Mhz = 1300
The attachment is a graph with my experiments to find a fast and stable configuration. The red line is my best so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent! i might have to try some of your undervolting! Did you do tests with a max voltage set to determine stability?
also what do you test it with?

What voltage you undervolt, arm or init
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app

melvinaury said:
What voltage you undervolt, arm or init
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My guess is that it's the ARM voltages, idk though.

My phone doesn't like speeds over 1.4 nor live OC over 20%. Those are my max settings without freezes or reboots.
For stability testing I use nbajam and blood and glory. Those games are very sensitive to changes in voltage and overclocking.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium

melvinaury said:
What voltage you undervolt, arm or init
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those are arm voltages.
I don't feel comfortable messing with Int voltages.

Anybody able to get a stable 1.6? I can't seem to get it stable...
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app

I think Icepack might work better!

bravomail said:
I think Icepack might work better!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahaha! Good idea!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app

baconatorXVI said:
My favorite Fast Stable Safe setting:
My phone is almost always on this setting for everyday use: SIO, Conservative, Freq OC at 1200 and Live OC at 116% yielding 1.392ghz. with a bit of voltage increase this has become my favorite setting, i always use this setup.
Some may balk at my use of the conservative governor, I Love it actually, CPU spy reports that the conservative governor barely ever uses the highest step for regular usage. Which is great because you don't need the highes step to be running all the time as most actions don't require it, the less high voltage you send to the chip the better. It also helps with battery life.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great info, thanks. I had my phone running 1.5ghz (directly, no Live OC) all day long on Glitch kernel a while back... before I started flashing Devil. Right now on Devil I am trying out underclocking while using live OC, so I have the frequency set to 800 with a 110% Live OC so the CPU is at 880mhz. SmartassV2 and SIO. It is very responsive and I should try a higher Live OC I think.
I had trouble using the GPU OC feature... have you been using that at all? I think I remember someone mentioning they had GPU OC plus a Live OC on top of that... I would think that would be harmful to the GPU, right? I set the GPU back to 200mhz since I was getting more and more frequent FCs, freezes and reboots. Thanks for your posts and sharing your results.

They Drew First Blood said:
Great info, thanks. I had my phone running 1.5ghz (directly, no Live OC) all day long on Glitch kernel a while back... before I started flashing Devil. Right now on Devil I am trying out underclocking while using live OC, so I have the frequency set to 800 with a 110% Live OC so the CPU is at 880mhz. SmartassV2 and SIO. It is very responsive and I should try a higher Live OC I think.
I had trouble using the GPU OC feature... have you been using that at all? I think I remember someone mentioning they had GPU OC plus a Live OC on top of that... I would think that would be harmful to the GPU, right? I set the GPU back to 200mhz since I was getting more and more frequent FCs, freezes and reboots. Thanks for your posts and sharing your results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem, your post on the devil kernel thread helped convince me to switch to SmartassV2. I'll probably bring a condensed version here for whoever else stumbles here.
I've only had one troubling experience with gpu overclock on. I was going for a high antutu score running something like 1.5ghz. Anyways, for whatever reason during one stage of the test, can't remember which, i got a strange green flashy line across the screen. it was very unsettling cause i thought it was a hardware issue that i would have to live with. it stayed there even though i stopped the test. turning the screen on and off didn't fix it either. thankfully rebooting fixed the issue.
The only other time i've seen visual artifacts like that is when I would overclock my graphics card on my desktop. so i assume it was a graphical processing error.
I can't say for sure if gpu overclocking AND live OC together cause problems. although I wouldn't be too disappointed if my cappy died, then i'd unfortunately have to upgrade to the Galaxy SIII

Dumb question, but how have you two over clocked the gpu? Is it possible to underclock while having the CPU overclocked? For my phone, the gpu always locks before the ram/proc. I can tell because the screen gets all fuzzy with lines which makes me reboot.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2

goob1284 said:
Dumb question, but how have you two over clocked the gpu? Is it possible to underclock while having the CPU overclocked? For my phone, the gpu always locks before the ram/proc. I can tell because the screen gets all fuzzy with lines which makes me reboot.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well we are able to overclock our GPU's because the devil .79 and on kernel allows the choice between either 200mhz(stock) or 250mhz.
to underclock the gpu you would need to talk to a kernel maker.
Maybe you need to increase your voltages... don't increase them too much though. I'm not totally familiar with the architecture and design of each processing bit inside the captivate but from my knowledge of computers, more voltage makes it more stable.
this question should be asked to a kernel maker! i hope you find your solution.
are you past warranty? you're positive it's not a rom issue? did this happen while it was stock?

baconatorXVI said:
Well we are able to overclock our GPU's because the devil .79 and on kernel allows the choice between either 200mhz(stock) or 250mhz.
to underclock the gpu you would need to talk to a kernel maker.
Maybe you need to increase your voltages... don't increase them too much though. I'm not totally familiar with the architecture and design of each processing bit inside the captivate but from my knowledge of computers, more voltage makes it more stable.
this question should be asked to a kernel maker! i hope you find your solution.
are you past warranty? you're positive it's not a rom issue? did this happen while it was stock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Overclocking GPU is an option, but it is disable as well as the 56/60 Hz switch.

pros and cons OC/UV

about time for me to change roms again. i know there are many with this option, but have never chose to pursue that option due to lack of understanding benefits. always seemed to get satisfactory battery life out of phone, but could it be better? i have noticed different speeds on my phone with different roms but is this something that can speed up and keep the smooooth in my phone?
just thought i would get some feedback of the advantages and disadvantages of overclocking and undervolting.
will it harm my infuse?
what are good settings?
what exactly would the OC or UV each do?
if i run a search on this, i know i am going to get the phone book and just figured i would get a more specific answer directly as opposed to piecing little bits together and still not being confident in what my interpretation would be.
everyone in the infuse community always seems to have the answers and dont steer the dullards such as myself in the wrong direction.
you guys are the MAN, and well, you women.....your the woman i reckon

captemo said:
will it harm my infuse?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, so significant damage can be done with overclocking. Alhought if you set your ghz too high your phone might become unresponsive, overheat and/or auto reboot your device. This is normal if your on GB and some ICS roms. Don't see it much on JB becuase the some kernels dont support it. Just be sure to play with your settings and MAKE SURE SET ON BOOT IS DISABLED or else your phone will be stuck in a bootloop when overclocked beyond stable settings.
captemo said:
what are good settings?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I usually stick with 1400 ghz because 1600 ghz[max] drains battery too quickly for not much of performance boost and 1600 is considered unstable on most GB and ICS roms. As for CPU governor Id stick with ONDEMAND.
captemo said:
what exactly would the OC or UV each do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OC is over clocking your processor to a higher ghz for better perofmance and under volting is drawing less energy

Is there like a guide saying what each CPU governor does? Because some of them are pretty confusing with their terminology, like smartassv2

Garen21 said:
Is there like a guide saying what each CPU governor does? Because some of them are pretty confusing with their terminology, like smartassv2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1420742

I used to under volt a lot to get better battery life. But it seemed to make a couple apps hang now and then.
I am now on Scotts PA JellyBean ROM. Battery life is very good for me stock with this. So I have left under volt to stock settings.
Normally I'll run on smartassV2 governer. With NOOP i/o. And 100mhz - 1400mhz.. just for a little extra boost.
When I know I'll be playing a game or multitasking, I'll boost it to 1600mhz.
Overall stock settings run amazing, both battery life and performance, on Scott's PA JB and CM10.
After doing some reading, I believe I can get better results from using the above settings. It all depends on what your personal goal is.
The biggest concern you should have when overclocking is mentioned above. Boot loop, just make sure you test it for a while with set on boot un checked.
Undervolting you can go to low and also boot loop, so same applies here... leave set on boot un checked. All phones are different on what settings they run best at. Just gotta play around and see what works for you.
A good rule of thumb for under voting... go down 25mv at a time and test it out... keep going down 25mv until you get a problem or boot loop and then go back.. then you'll know your max.
You can safely under volt more on the lower frequencies than you can the higher ones. Personally I never undervolted more than 100mv across the board. And when I did, I usually kept it around -50mv.
Sent from my SGH-I997 using xda app-developers app

not for infuse but a good reference for ocuv. explains what they do
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1827635
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium

This is the best guide I've found covering kernel and system tuning - CPU parameters, governors, schedulers, init.d, loadable modules, etc. It's for the SGS2 (i9000) and some of the governors/schedulers are not available on the Infuse, but much of this is applicable to our phone:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1369817
As for OC/UV, as long as you stay away from the "Performance" governor (this runs the phone at max freq all the time), and undervolting below -75 to -100 you generally will be safe. As phones are different, it is important to test in gradual steps to ensure your phone will be reliable. Use a good CPU manager, like SetCPU, Antutu, or Voltage Control. Make sure you enable the "revert to stock" feature so that you can boot recovery and turn off any bad OC/UV. As noted above, do not check the enable on boot setting until you are certain you have a good config.
The decision to OC should take into account how you use the phone. If your phone is asleep more than 80% of the time on average, you can probably run an OC config and still have overall good battery life (i.e. lasting an entire day with nightly recharges). If you use your phone for music playback or something else that prevents it from sleeping, OC may not be for you. If you run CPU intensive games, it is better to disable UV settings while OCed.
Use CPU Spy to keep an eye on your time at each freq state (and sleep). Use the default battery stats and graph to monitor which apps are consuming the most battery. Use apps like Better Battery Stats, Android Assistant and Watchdog for more detailed monitoring of what is keeping the phone awake and which apps/processes are top cpu resource consumers. With this information you can identify problem apps and decide whether you should remove them from your phone.
From the "unintended functionality" side of the house, there are certain tweaks that will cause your phone to run at max freq ... mucking around with phone properties in build.prop can lead to runaway rild process problems (usually shows up as unusually high "Dialer" in the standard battery stats list and a phone that is warm or hot to the touch). Some of the tweak scripts in adrenaline and tbolt can cause similar problems. There is a known bug in the infuse network drivers that shows up as much higher than normal Android OS battery usage. This can usually be corrected (short term fix) by toggling Flight/Airplane mode off/on. Running the stock UCLB3 GB kernel also seems to minimize this issue (assuming you are running a GB ROM), but flash with caution as you will need to disable voodoo lagfix first. (You will also lose CWM recovery, OC/UV capability, and be on the slower stock file system setup).

I have done a fair amount of experimenting including lots of time on conservative governor with Fmax=1600 and never had any problem that I attributed to OC'ing.
In contrast I did find a limit on UVing. I just updated my thread with my experience on uv here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=32552571#post32552571
The bottom line is that for MY phone, the following works fine:
100 Mhz: 950mv max – 50mv = 900 millivolts
200 Mhz: 950mv max – 25= 925 millivolts
400 Mhz: 1050mv max – 50mv = 1000 millivolts
800 Mhz: 1200mv max – 75 mv = 1125 millivolts
1200 Mhz: 1275mv max – 50mv = 1225 millivolts
1600 Mhz: 1400mv max – 75mv = 1325 millivolts
Some other links with others' experience suggestions about UV'ing for Infuse:
Hozw low is your undervolt?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1693689&highlight=kernel
[Q] Recommended SetCPU settings?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1292836&highlight=setcpu
You’ll note the last thread has comments from Entropy’s settings.
Also Zen and qkster gave advice in the first thread (my thread).
All three guys very well respected and worth listening to.
Entropy mentioned you can uv the higher frequencies more than the lower (different than what was posted earlier in this thread). I don’t know for sure but I’d lean toward Entropy’s advice on that matter.
I think all in all somewhere between 50 and 100 is the max you can expect to undervolt.
What can be achieved varies with phone as stated by many.
You are welcome to experiment with slowly decreasing. That's what I did.
But in the benefit of hindsight, the process of slowly decreasing is tedious. And going beyond the limit was a little scarey for me. Could've been worse if the phone crapped out at a critical time during "experimenting". Like almost everything related to battery life, the results (how much benefit) seem y subjective (difficult to measure quantitatively). Most people say they don’t notice a dramatic difference with UV. If you want to get the low hanging fruit without a lot effort, you might just try 50 down. That's what I'd do if I had to do it all over again.
By the way, setcpu can be set up to provide a failsafe escape route even if you go overboard. There is a zip file that will toggle the setcpu settings off when launched from CWM. You just have to put the zip file on your sd card before you start tweaking. See "safe mode" in the setcpu documentation.

started to wonder at first whether i would get any responses after 218 views and nothing, but i knew the community would come through as they always do. all the regulars as usual regulars ( Zen, Quickster and others) are always eager to help. i think you have all provided me with the valuable info i requested.
thank you much party people

[Q] Overclocking: Minimum/Maximum CPU Clocking Settings?

Running: Asus Transformer TF101 (with Tegra 2 chip)
OS: EOS Custom ROM 78 (Jelly Bean) -- And THANKS to 'em!
Short Question: What the heck are those minimum/maximum MHz settings' optimal numbers?
Long Question: My TF101 w/ EOS Nightly #78 has an overclocking feature in it. Very cool. There are not one, but TWO, separate settings for the chip -- a minimum MHz (starting at 200MHz or something) and a maximum MHz (all the way up to 1600MHz). But after I messed some with it (and like a dunce did not write down the original values) I experienced some random reboots, usually after I closed the lid a while and then reopened it.
So, my question's long version (which is actually a number of questions), follows...
* What are the original values of the Tegra 2 chip in one of these babies? I mean, 1000MHz (1Ghz) is probably the maximum default setting, since that's the chip's official rating. But what's the minimum setting supposed to be at?
* Can I do something as crazy as to tell it to run minimum of 1200MHz and maximum of 1600MHz? In fact, I'm trying that right now and it seems to be working.... but I doubt I'll leave it that way even if it does (makes me nervous about messing up the hardware).
* What optimal settings have others tried with this chip in this (TF101) unit.... or even in other Tegra 2 based tablets?
Thanks for reading. Looking forward to comments.

shonkin said:
Running: Asus Transformer TF101 (with Tegra 2 chip)
OS: EOS Custom ROM 78 (Jelly Bean) -- And THANKS to 'em!
Short Question: What the heck are those minimum/maximum MHz settings' optimal numbers?
Long Question: My TF101 w/ EOS Nightly #78 has an overclocking feature in it. Very cool. There are not one, but TWO, separate settings for the chip -- a maximum MHz (starting at 200MHz or something) and a maximum MHz (all the way up to 1600MHz). But after I messed some with it (and like a dunce did not write down the original values) I experienced some random reboots, usually after I closed the lid a while and then reopened it.
So, my question's long version (which is actually a number of questions), follows...
* What are the original values of the Tegra 2 chip in one of these babies? I mean, 1000MHz (1Ghz) is probably the maximum default setting, since that's the chip's official rating. But what's the minimum setting supposed to be at?
* Can I do something as crazy as to tell it to run minimum of 1200MHz and maximum of 1600MHz? In fact, I'm trying that right now and it seems to be working.... but I doubt I'll leave it that way even if it does (makes me nervous about messing up the hardware).
* What optimal settings have others tried with this chip in this (TF101) unit.... or even in other Tegra 2 based tablets?
Thanks for reading. Looking forward to comments.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Generally its all up to your specific chip and how much it can handle as all hardware isn't created equal especially Tegra soc's... the stock speed is 1GHz for the TF but could easily run higher... i would only run your min so high if doing benchmarking not everyday use.. it will kill your battery faster, it would tho benefit benchmarking Because it would run at the highest speed and not have a chance to jump to a lower speed... wont do any damage to the chip since it has built in thermal throttling anyways... my suggestion would be setting your min to the lowest and With the max speed start at 1.2GHz with some stability tests, or heavy use at different OC speeds to find your chips sweet spot with both stability, Battery life and performance.. and have fun

DJLamontagneIII said:
Generally its all up to your specific chip and how much it can handle as all hardware isn't created equal especially Tegra soc's... the stock speed is 1GHz for the TF but could easily run higher... i would only run your min so high if doing benchmarking not everyday use.. it will kill your battery faster, it would tho benefit benchmarking Because it would run at the highest speed and not have a chance to jump to a lower speed... wont do any damage to the chip since it has built in thermal throttling anyways... my suggestion would be setting your min to the lowest and With the max speed start at 1.2GHz with some stability tests, or heavy use at different OC speeds to find your chips sweet spot with both stability, Battery life and performance.. and have fun
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure where the "thanks" button is yet here, but will try to figure it out. Wait.... I just did.
Tonight I backed the minimum down to the 800 vicinity (whatever that number is) and left the top number at 1600. My recent test has been to run Angry Bird, which is not the most stable program. It runs just fine at this setting. The battery is draining fast, though.
So you are suggesting that taking it all the way to the basement minimum-wise will still give me fairly stable top end? I keep wondering if there's any relationship at all between the two numbers, if at some point they don't affect one another adversely if too far apart? This idea is based on no knowledge whatever.
So any furhter thoughts welcome.

shonkin said:
I'm not sure where the "thanks" button is yet here, but will try to figure it out. Wait.... I just did.
Tonight I backed the minimum down to the 800 vicinity (whatever that number is) and left the top number at 1600. My recent test has been to run Angry Bird, which is not the most stable program. It runs just fine at this setting. The battery is draining fast, though.
So you are suggesting that taking it all the way to the basement minimum-wise will still give me fairly stable top end? I keep wondering if there's any relationship at all between the two numbers, if at some point they don't affect one another adversely if too far apart? This idea is based on no knowledge whatever.
So any furhter thoughts welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is best to leave the min freq as per default and push only the max freq. Then, you can set application profiles whereby you will allow an oc if you play a specific app(this feature requires an app that is called setcpu). This is to allow you to gain the best battery life(what you did is okay as well, but you'll have less battery life as the proc is running at 800mhz at min)
Otherwise, you can do it manually by setting the governor. For example, when you want to play games, set the governor to performance and oc your proc. When you don't want to play games anymore, then set it back to interactive or ondemand(or any other suggested governor for your device) to allow battery saving

wcypierre said:
It is best to leave the min freq as per default and push only the max freq. Then, you can set application profiles whereby you will allow an oc if you play a specific app(this feature requires an app that is called setcpu). This is to allow you to gain the best battery life(what you did is okay as well, but you'll have less battery life as the proc is running at 800mhz at min)
Otherwise, you can do it manually by setting the governor. For example, when you want to play games, set the governor to performance and oc your proc. When you don't want to play games anymore, then set it back to interactive or ondemand(or any other suggested governor for your device) to allow battery saving
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have setcpu but after mucking about with it managed to end up with an unstable system (spontaneous reboots, esp. after closing then opening lid and "waking up" the TF101). Currently I'm just using the EOS Rom's own system settings and having low end all the way to minimum (200 something) and top end at 1500+. The 1600 mhz setting is apparently a problem for this machine (the spontaneous resets again). But at 1500 whatever it seems just fine
One other issue, very important to all of us (harhar), is that Angry Birds seems unstable since I updated to this custom EOS rom. I noted elsewhere that someone said simply turning off wireless would disable ads and stablize the game. I've not tried that yet. Losing angry birds for me would not be a major blow.