Related
Before you suggest i change the battery.. it's just fine.
the problem started the day i flashed WM6 (over a month back) and has only started to bug me lately as my phone died on me 3 days in a row.
basically the moment the battery level gets down to 40-50% the phone just dies.. i could reset it and it powers up for a second or so then it dies again.
i flashed WM5 back.. and the phone was working fine even if the battery level reached 10% (i get a warning bubble but it doesn't just die on me!)
i've searched around and noticed the only suggestions were to change the battery, which seemed kinda useless as i'm almost sure the problem is somewhere in WM6 power management/battery handling.
any comments?
Try another WM6.
If you used Helmi's/Jwright's try DarkForce's/PDAVIET, or vice versa.
Mate I can get mine to die at 90% battery just by switching WIFI Bluetooth and opening a CPU intensive app (Google maps/Tom-Tom).
I’ve ordered a new battery and its coming next week so I will see if this is any better.
This is more than likely a Current problem, an in the battery cant supply enough amps for the phone to function properly, im almost certain that the WM6 ROMS do cause more current to be drawn from the battery but it is most likely that this is just highlighting that the battery is on its last legs.
Ill post back when the new one comes, If its doesn’t fix my problem I will be flashing back to the standard WM5 ROM to do some tests.
its probably the battery
i had the same problem. a new battery fixed it. it would die at 45% but now works all the way down to 5%.
new batt or borrow one from a friend to test.
I have seen the same thing on the BA fora as well: It's not that the whole batery is dead, but some of the cells in the battery are.
There it was also fixed with a new(er) battery...
I had to add a comment
I use a Exec with WM6 and i have a MDA Pro that i keep trying different roms on so i can use and mess with it and at the same time keep my sort of stable exec for work.
i do swop batteries between phones and so on, i cant say what roms i am useing when this happen but i have the same problem on the MDA Pro 40-45% it shuts off, reset and it starts for a second then shuts off, so i then put the battery from the exec ( charged ) in the MDA and away it goes my exec happly sits there at 40 or so % and will go down to 0 flat.
So its not the battery its the phone, but as said by someone else it could be dependent on what rom i am useing at the time
It is the battery..100%...pls buy a new one or try exchange from yr friend..nothing wrong with the Phone..
I tested every wm5 and wm6 roms and i have two batteries: one dies at 35% while the other never dies but gives warnings on the red side.
tailazoom said:
I tested every wm5 and wm6 roms and i have two batteries: one dies at 35% while the other never dies but gives warnings on the red side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I still think the main problem is the battery.
But I think WM6 just uses more power intensively then WM5 does. That would be the reason the phone dies.
Mine always goes back on again but then dies booting the OS.
Had the same problem with old PDAVIET rom
Hi, had the same problem with the old PDAVIET ROM 2.08 somethign or other, but since upgrading to 2.10.02, everything is back to normal, and lightning fast.
Try the newer ROM, and then see if the same happens, and if it does, then it is the battery which is definately causing the problem.
Kevin
I have read somewhere in these forums that when the Networks release their official ROMs for upgrades they all clearly state that you should ensure your battery is at 100% charge as when you run the ROM upgrade the battery management resets its self to the level of the battery.........ie it assumes 100% but if your battery is at only 50%, then 50% becomes what it believes to be 100% therefore half the battery life.
I have to kind of agree with this because my first WM6 upgrade I was so eager to do my M5000 had only been on charge for 10mins or so and after the upgrade battery life was awful, however since then I upgrade only after my M5000 has been at 100% for about 30mins and since have not had any issues wahtsoever with battery life
Hope this helps
Shaunfarris said:
I have read somewhere in these forums that when the Networks release their official ROMs for upgrades they all clearly state that you should ensure your battery is at 100% charge as when you run the ROM upgrade the battery management resets its self to the level of the battery.........ie it assumes 100% but if your battery is at only 50%, then 50% becomes what it believes to be 100% therefore half the battery life.
I have to kind of agree with this because my first WM6 upgrade I was so eager to do my M5000 had only been on charge for 10mins or so and after the upgrade battery life was awful, however since then I upgrade only after my M5000 has been at 100% for about 30mins and since have not had any issues wahtsoever with battery life
Hope this helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought it was because when you put your device into BL and flash it to a new rom, during the upgrade the phone won't charge.
So if you update with only 10% battery the device could turn off during the flash, and that would be a bad thing.
So they state (advice) to charge it to 100% before flashing.
Viper® said:
I thought it was because when you put your device into BL and flash it to a new rom, during the upgrade the phone won't charge.
So if you update with only 10% battery the device could turn off during the flash, and that would be a bad thing.
So they state (advice) to charge it to 100% before flashing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong. The previous poster is 100% correct. Better charge your battery to 100% before flashing.
What should I do if I had ROMed my Uni not in 100% bat.?
Your PDA needs to be fully charged because during the flashing the battery is not charging. So if your phone runs out of battery before the upload has finished you are screwed.
I never believe that the state of the battery is been used as the 100% level of your battery during flashing. I make elektronics myself, the battery level is always measured elektronically.
I had the same issue. I fix it with a new battery and works fine since then.
A bit of both
WM6 does use more current compared to WM5 and most of us have been torturing our Uni's with all the flashing we do (We don't use them as a phone much more of an intellectual playfield) . Also most of us have had the Uni for a year and some longer. My XDA Exec is 2 years and T-Mobile MDA Pro a year in sometime. The batteries are a bit older and unable to supply the increased power as before. I do have this problem if I use the older batt on WM6 and the newer batt works just fine. But then again the older batt works fine on the MDA pro (unchanged with original MDA Roms).
Cheers
Battery
Hi,
i was suffering from the same batery issue in the last 10-12 months, and let me share my experinces. After my original battery started to die first at 20% and finally at 50% i bought a new one. I read tonns of articles about LI-POLymer batteries and tried o follow as it was written. The result : after 4 months my new battery is in the same state. I bought 2 other. When i started to use the first, i had always recharge it between 10-20%. Now this battery dies at 12-15%. I let my latest battery to go down to 3 % ALWAYS and after 5 months NO PROBLEM AT ALL!.
So my experience:
-let the bttery go down. I don't care what other experts say about the characteristic of Li-Polymer. For me it seems that practice is different.
-NEVER,NEVER,NEVER cahrge the battery if it is not empty. In my car if I want to use my UNI for listening music or GPS then i REPLACE MY GOOD BATTERY with the old one, and then i use the car charger. With my laptop i use only BLUETOOTH connections
-ALWAYS USE original charger. No laptop, no car charging
-If i do an upgrade for any ROM i ALWAYS DO THE UPGRADE WITH THE OLD BATTERY.
-USE at least 2 batteries, one is always charged fully, and if the other goes down you can replace it quickly
I am sure that there are many experts, who can tell me why i am wrong, but the pratice seems to work for me. And i have not found any experts who could explain these strange situations with UNI. Now I have 3 batteries. All is about 10 months old. One dies between 30-50%, the other dies always at 10-12% and the last always at 2-3%.
crikey, the device is big enough as it is without carrying around more batterys. Mine's starting to die at 70% now. When it reboots it seems to die when the radio stack is activated. Had it for 13 months now my stylus falls out too had to put cellotape around it which has sorted it.
Just waiting for three(uk) to bring out the tytn so i can move over with their x-series stuff!!! woohooo!
I've had mine about 13 months now and it started dying at 40% left then 60% then 85% (of battery left!). I bought a new battery and 3 days later without charging it's still on 65% left
hi there!
as mentionend by users in other threads, it seems that a high number of raphs have a draining battery issue - compareable to the bug in our kaisers about a year ago: batterystatus measures around 70/80 mA in sleepmode with all programs and tf3d closed - on a kaiser with custom rom was around 4mA (!!).
So please, dear chefs: Try to figure out how we can fix this one
Check out some kind of solution / a way to improve your battery uptime: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=2770702&postcount=25
Update: Battery was sucked empty from 90% within 3-4 hours in the night (!!). No running programs. In the chart you can see the difference between loading with the 220V plug and the USB-cable (last part of the chart). Sometimes it looks as the device sucks more power than the usb loader can deliver -> battery will get empty even when plugged into the computer the whole day.
Looks as we really need a solution thus waiting for htc or cellproviders is useless :-(
licht77 said:
Update: Battery was sucked empty from 90% within 3-4 hours in the night (!!). No running programs. In the chart you can see the difference between loading with the 220V plug and the USB-cable (last part of the chart). Sometimes it looks as the device sucks more power than the usb loader can deliver -> battery will get empty even when plugged into the computer the whole day.
Looks as we really need a solution thus waiting for htc or cellproviders is useless :-(
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you check this? Start->Settings->System->Power. Make sure that the "When device is turned on, do not charge the battery when connected to the PC" is unchecked.
programatix said:
Can you check this? Start->Settings->System->Power. Make sure that the "When device is turned on, do not charge the battery when connected to the PC" is unchecked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course it is unchecked - but thanks for the hint!
I still need to get over the shock that it took just 3-4h to ground the battery in standby without running programs oO
for me it helped a lot to improve battery life to set the setting 18.4 (energy saving) in diamond tweak...
pensador said:
for me it helped a lot to improve battery life to set the setting 18.4 (energy saving) in diamond tweak...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I need to compare the tweaks but i enabled energysaving options with Advanced Config... - but I will give diamond tweak a try and even do a hardreset in order exclude 3rd party software for the power consumption...
ill report soon!
im having battery issues, too.
sometimes the phone gets unresponsive, really hot and battery drops 30-40% in ~1h minutes - without being used.
i love my touch pro, but ive got so many problems (crashes, hang ups, battery, broken screen thing, grey display with stripes, the list goes on and on...) that im considering to return it
So... small update of my findings:
My Raph(s):
R 1.02.25.19
G 52.23.25.1.7U
D 1.69.00.00
The power consumption usually never falls below 75mA. It goes up to usually 240mA, 700mA yes sometimes 1100mA. (Again: in standby!)
Comparison: on the kaiser it was around 4-12mA with Teijaks V5.
The following changes WONT affect this problem:
o disabling TF3D
o switching to GSM/GPRS only
o switching off persistent internet connection (e.g. exchange server) (!!!)
o kicking ALL not absolutely necessary backgroud processes step by step and measure between
Naively i thought that someone may be interested in that behaviour and called my provider t-mobile... ok, bad idea as they seem to have none knowledge about that devices at all.
But at least I got a number of their hardware-supporter / servicemen "Kapsch" who couldnt help me either but where kindly enough to pass me a number of HTC here in Europe.
The nice lady with basic knowledge about the devices as well as the language we were talking in came to the conclusion that the only solution would be to send the devices in via my provider.
Well, so they believe that exactly theese 3 raphaels here are the only ones to suffer from that power drain (hardresettet, blank installation, bla bla like above)... and sending them in (what means: dont see them again for a month or so and get them back in the same condition) would be THE solution.
Somehow i am pissed that i already sold the kaisers and wonder how it will be next week on a businesstravel with an unpowered TomTom outside the car and a phone which drains in a few hours in standby
(Sorry for whining around...)
Completely agree with some of your figures, however the highest i have ever seen is around 550mA. Usually after no data transfer i get it to drop to between 89 ~ 110mA. How are you measuring standby current? When in standby, how can the software measure the current? I only ask as like you, the lowest i have seen for current is 82mA, however this figure would give a max standbytime of around 16 hours. I have found that the TP in standby performs the same if not better then my old kaiser which, like you measured around 4mA in standby. From what i have seen, i can not measure a true standby current like i could on the kaiser.
I measured with CommMgrPro and batterystatus...
Measuring a "real" standby without changing the battery with an Ampere/Voltmeter is not easily possible i think... so i use CommMgrPro and accept its own usage as somekind of "Baseline".
Or - if you dont need a chart / history, i use the much smaller Batterystatus, disable TF3d to see the Homeplug and close all applications. With all apps closed i turn of the device, wait a minute or to be sure that it has gone sleeping, and wake it up. A few seconds after turning on the mW/mA measures will jump to the "standby" values due to its delay. Not 100% accurate but okay for comparison reasons...
Edit: Theese are my processes, the bold ones have been killed for testing purposes:
NK.EXE;0;0;\Windows\nk.exe;;2;FEFF002
filesys.exe;9760768;6286864;\Windows\filesys.exe;;14;FEEDCE6
device.exe;6602752;5714424;\Windows\device.exe;;218;FEB8F4A
cprog.exe;10567680;10227808;\Windows\cprog.exe;-n;12;2D93537A
SAPSettings.exe;114688;2944;\Windows\SAPSettings.exe;99;5;E9C7742
gwes.exe;4698112;4214840;\Windows\gwes.exe;30;35;E9B4566
shell32.exe;1724416;886584;\Windows\shell32.exe;50;21;CE70CBAA
services.exe;3035136;2127440;\Windows\services.exe;60;74;AEDD3EF2
connmgr.exe;409600;99152;\Windows\connmgr.exe;70;17;D8D06E6
Biotouch.exe;1024000;636792;\Windows\Biotouch.exe;;9;EF86C7DE
SDDaemon.exe;176128;28544;\Windows\SDDaemon.exe;;2;6DA68DBE
tmail.exe;352256;46256;\Windows\tmail.exe;-NoUI;6;ED2CCD36
OperaPreL.exe;24576;32;\Windows\OperaPreL.exe;;2;EC986A3E
Opera9.exe;159744;4256;\Windows\Opera9.exe;;1;C4FA06E
JBlendDaemon.exe;188416;65744;\Windows\JBlendDaemon.exe;;3;C595512
SIPGT_app.exe;1863680;1688032;\Windows\SIPGT_app.exe;;2;AC57D24E
My5MsgCenter.exe;180224;22016;\Windows\My5MsgCenter.exe;;5;C2CD412
myFavesService.exe;299008;132608;\Windows\myFavesService.exe;;2;AD8D0806
licht77 said:
I measured with CommMgrPro and batterystatus...
Measuring a "real" standby without changing the battery with an Ampere/Voltmeter is not easily possible i think... so i use CommMgrPro and accept its own usage as somekind of "Baseline".
Or - if you dont need a chart / history, i use the much smaller Batterystatus, disable TF3d to see the Homeplug and close all applications. With all apps closed i turn of the device, wait a minute or to be sure that it has gone sleeping, and wake it up. A few seconds after turning on the mW/mA measures will jump to the "standby" values due to its delay. Not 100% accurate but okay for comparison reasons...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, this i could do on the kaiser, but not on the touch pro. Each time i turn the phone on, i see at least 82mA, which would only give a stnadby of 16 hours - but i can achieve 3 days, so clearly this is not the standby current.
3 days.. i can only dream of that That would mean that you got around 19mA drain in standby... how do u measure?
licht77 said:
3 days.. i can only dream of that That would mean that you got around 19mA drain in standby... how do u measure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats what i'm trying to say - i cant measure anything below 80mA when i turn the TP on, however it is obviously NOT the standby current as i can obtain 50mA with a dim backlight, plus get 3 days standby. When i state 3 days, thats with no usage!
I'm just trying to point out that what you think is the standby current, probably isn't and we all know that there are issues with the battery management on this phone.
Another example, i have had my phone of charge since 7am, made a couple of short calls, 5 mins of wap browsing, and its currently reporting 95%. If my standby current was 80mA, it would be down to 50% by now. However, assuming i continue to use the phone in this way, in theory i should get 160 hours, which indicates an average drain of 8mA.
I agree - of course you are right and measuring this way can - if anyhow - assist in relatively comparing two devices/ configs but not deliver absolut values of course.
With batterystatus it worked pretty well on the kaiser - and even on the raph i could see 3 or 4 times my beloved 4mA... but in 99% its around 80aH ind standby and around 300-400 in usage which seems plausible regarding my usage.
Nevertheless i had several times a "hardcore" drain where i must had (mathematically) around 400 during standby and maybe even more during worktime when plugged in via USB: It DISCHARGED what means that it used more power than USB could deliver
(usb charging settings correct)
If I dont get my callback from my provider today, then i will try an inofficial RadioRom this weekend...
In standby mode, all application should have been paused by the deviced, right? Then how can any application measure the power usage in standby mode?
some apps keep going. thats how you get messages
i can get 2days out of my phone with heavy usage
Brendo said:
some apps keep going. thats how you get messages
i can get 2days out of my phone with heavy usage
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is because the OS send out events when something happens, thus waking up the device and letting the apps run.
For SMS, sim card receive message, sim card inform OS, OS wakes device up, OS send out events, app capture the events.
For alarms, OS wakes device up when the schedule reached, then send out events or start apps depending on the alarm.
So, device must wakes up before apps can do anything.
Some apps intercept the standby button (power button) and instead of letting the device goes to standby when pressed, just turns off the display. For TP, HTC has modified something (or loaded some apps) to make sure that when you are playing the music or listening to the radio, the power button just turn off the display instead of going to standby mode. If the device goes to standby mode, the device could never play any music.
So, if the battery benchmarking app you are using is able to measure the power consumption when the device goes to standby, I doubt it. It actually just turn off the display.
I seem to have fixed or at least drastically improved my battery. I was suffering major drainage with moderate to heavy use, after about 5 hours the power would go down from 100% to 10%. I have WiFi on permanently and do a lot of emailing and texting.
I drained the battery to 0% and with the phone off (not in standby) I charged it using the AC adaptor. With it fully charged and the button light on (glows when charging, solid on when charged) I turned the phone on and first time it said 88% charged?!?! But it lasted the whole day and even had a good 30+% left at the end.
Did it again, ran loads of apps and switched everything on until 0% battery. Charged over night with the phone off. Next day it said it had 95% charge when I switched it on and again it lasted all day with quite heavy usage.
Discharged it again that night and plugged it in, today it says 100% and I'm pretty sure it will last even longer.
I've also found that after doing this, if I don't use the phone and the screen is off, I can leave it for 4 hours and the battery percentage doesn't even go down 1%.... which is a bit unbelievable but happens.
PLeased to say, now this last gripe seems to be fixed..... this is by far the best smartphone I've owned or used and on the market. Great step up from the TYTN II and iPhone (nice toy but useless for email and destructive with exchange servers).
Gav_ said:
I drained the battery to 0% and with the phone off (not in standby) I charged it using the AC adaptor. With it fully charged and the button light on (glows when charging, solid on when charged) I turned the phone on and first time it said 88% charged?!?! But it lasted the whole day and even had a good 30+% left at the end.
Did it again, ran loads of apps and switched everything on until 0% battery. Charged over night with the phone off. Next day it said it had 95% charge when I switched it on and again it lasted all day with quite heavy usage.
Discharged it again that night and plugged it in, today it says 100% and I'm pretty sure it will last even longer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True. Draining the battery completely really helps. I've done it about 3 times and now my device can reach 2 days of heavy use with 1 charge. When I bought it drained very fast and charge indications were way of. (1 hour charges would just increase charge level with 5-10%).
What also adds battery life ia disabling activesync in the notification queue. Use memmaid or a similar program. Go to the notification queue and disable the entry for repplog.exe with the comment "system time changed". Activesync will function normally when connected to a PC. Not sure about OTA exchange syncs though...
Hope this helped
Scott
Hi,
I've found that the Raphael battery stops charging when it gets warmer than 48 degrees Celsius. I discovered this because I am using WMWifiRouter all day at the office, and noticed that although I have the Raph connected to a 2000mA wall charger, the battery drained and device got down to 10%.
The trick is that I have to put the device in "standby" mode py pressing the power button. The screen goes off, but the device is still running. This resulted in a lower device / battery temperature, and the battery remained at 100% after 8 hours of usage with WMWifiRouter and connected to the wall charger.
I can contrast this to with my Kaiser, which didn't stop chraging the battery until about 65 degrees Celsius!!
Maybe that helps too.
-Z
Maybe this depends on the batterys but mine was having that problem of going dead at higher and higher % it started at 10 than 30 then 50 and up to 70 I think.
I've tested all the solutions in the wiki (yes the freezer too ) but with no improvements, then I did the opposite, instead of draining the battery fast I drained the battery slowly and when the Universal shuted off I pluged it to the electricity until it boots ok and the cpu returned to 0/1%, then take it from electric power again and wait until it goes dead again and did this over and over again until I reached the minimum battery of 9% i think. Great improvement since I was already looking for battery replacements... Then I charged it over night.
Conclusion I have the Universal alive for 3 consecutive days (and nights) now at 52% waiting to check when it dies again
By draining the battery slowly I mean no light in the screen, no running programs and universal in closed state, flight mode and just one thing to check if it was alive or not, play some music in WMP in repeat mode, when it stoped playing it was time to have a litte more eletric juice until I could boot it up and start the music playing again.
When I have the final results -> when the universal goes down I will post the solution in the wiki
Again this may depend on the batterys but since there are so many people buying new ones you maybe want to try this solution too.
Oh and by the way I solved an "other" problem while trying to solve this...
Besides the tests on the battery like freezing it over night, taking the power level pin etc, I've started to think it was a problem from the rom so I cleaned the Universal doing that "task 28" thing and the result was solving the problem that I was having with the battery status (now home screen plus plus) it was not getting the cpu using percentage when in the past it did. Now with the cleaning reg whatever It is showing again the cpu using %
I don't know if you use this but it has a cool functionality, posting the cpu using % at the top bar of your universal can tell you how much the universal is working all the time, enabling you to notice when it is working when it shouldn't, normally some stupid background program that didn't go off...
hi there. I have two same unis, and three batteries. two standard, one big capacity 3200mAh (personally I dont believe it have such capacity, it is some china crap). but all three had that issue (uni shut down when capacity still showing more as 30% or more %). tried to deplete the battery completely (when it wont boot, I put device to bootloader mode and wait untill died completelly). now it show again 0% on all three batteries. I dont want to say, that your method is bad . no, I am just a lucky one, where the "wiki" methods worked correctly. and I think it is also important sometime charge the battery completelly, not only for couple of minutes, but until you see green light. when you deplete the battery completelly to zero (it is never zero, electronics integrated on the batter doesnt allow that) charging to full take much more time as before.
powerdetect
one more thing, you can test, how much capacity your battery have. it is simple utility called power detect. you can find it in THIS thread or as attached file. just copy to device and run. the test will suspend itself after one hour, so set all settings as needed. it will automatically create file, where you can find all important information. before you use it first time, charge your battery to full.
Thank you for the reply, My battery still dies at 30% but no more at 70% and 50% and it lasts 3 days/nights in a row.
I tried the boot loader mode but it seemed it had a timeout, instead of dying from battery losse it died from some kind of time out :/ because I was still capable of juicing some more battery if i went again to boot loader...
I will check that app, thnks again
wat i did..
well my battery used to shut off at 95 above present...wat i did was drain the battery with a 12 volt motor, took me a complete day for it to discharge, then i put it in the freezer, was suppose to put it for one night but i actually forgot bout me putting the battery in the freezer n i remembered after 2 days. then i charged it which also took around 18 hours to charge now my batter shouts itself at 70% n i can listen to music for 1.5 hours. which is a lot from a battery which was shutting at 95%
I have 2 SPVC600 phones and one is not even 24 hours in standby before the battery goes empty, whereas the other phone is in standby several days. I tried several different "virgin" ROMs on both phones, several different batteries, still the same problem, one phone just sucks the energy out of the battery like crazy.
Anybody knows where the problem is and how it could be fixed?
Thanks
Pirondello
Same Here...
Hi, i know that this is a old thread, but... the same issue here, i have a T-mobile SDA, replace the original battery that come with the phone 2 years ago, this battery die and ebay a fresh battery again, but... nothing, goes empty in less than 13 hours with the fresh and new battery (with the old one at least 4 hours before die under nitrogen´s wm6 rom), any suggestion? (i clean the phone of programs, change roms, downgrade to original WM5 but... nothing, only 12 to 14 hours and empty ), the new battery is a "OEM ST26" from sanyo...
Until this day, my tornado was the more reliable and trust phone that i´ve had
Can you recommend me any procedure for test the phone... do you think that is a usb connection Issue, i read in a lot of threads that this could be Rom upgrade... ´coz the new drivers, componets, etc.... any help ir really appreciated
Greetings from Colombia...
Usually the original batteries are the best you can get. Even the (now very old) original ones (Sanyo ST26-C) still have their original capacity and I have not seen a single battery of these that has failed until now.
If you see such a drain from the device you could possibly disassemble the device and clean it. If that does not help - sad :-(
Does it make difference if you charge the battery on the device being off or while OS is running?
If you have volt-meter: what is th battery-voltage when empty/fully loaded?
Hi Tobbie, thanks for the reply, yeah, i follow all procedures for battery maintance, i try charge with the phone off, phone on (with radio turned on and off, really i only see a difference of only 1 1/2 hours...), this night i try clean with isopropilic alcohol the contacs between battery an phone and i see... i noted something peculiar:sometimes when i plug the AC Adapter or connecting to my desktop, the led indicator (in this case orange), dont turn on, sometime this led appars and dissapear passing 20 seconds but full charge the phone (i see this in seetings=> energy configuration => 100%)... other times this light is hold until this change to green (fully charged), but ever the same result, lees than 12 Hours... this happen with both batteries (old one and fresh buyed from a reliable seller 15 days ago...)
I download awhile the service manual for tornado but... Scare... i really love this phone, really i have now a LG Incite, but this phone is my "backup", coz all time buy and sell phones, but this since 2005 "sleep with me...", if after clean contacts i dont see any change or fix... No mercy with tornado´s LOL...
and i want with all neighborhoods a voltimeter, can you tell me about the standar values for this battery (my knowlodgement about electronics are limited a lot), i post my results here after my test...)
Thanks a lot, i hope that you can help me later (and sorry for my ugly english)
Greetings from Colombia
This sounds weird, but the only reasonable source of evil is that also your other battery (equally aged, but unused probably) is chemically dead. It hardly ever happens that the charge-electronics is going mad somehow. With the many Tornado that I had on my desk, not a single one had problems with this part. For some devices I have seen that the batteries were stone dead - and these behave as you describe it.
It looks as if the battery has lost its capacity. A fully charged battery has a capacity of roughly 1100 mAh. With a drain of ~75mA (for the fully lit display) this will last 14h and 40 minutes. So a similar power drain would have to suck the juice off the battery - which I doubt that anything will do. If you switched off all radio parts (GSM, WLAN + BT) there is nothing left that drains the battery like this.
You could try to check how long the batteries will last when you have the display light draining the battery additionally. For this part it is well known how much it drains (see above) - and if you see that the battery lasts half the time of what you said before - then the battery is ok and the device has some mysterious power drain. If however the battery only lasts a few minutes with this defined load - then it is surely dead.
Check the battery capacity link in my signature to get the tooling for measuring this easily.
Voltages should be measured with a digital Voltmeter if you have access to one. They are for dead batteries not much different to good ones if you do not apply load, but a fully charged LiIon has around 4,2 V and discharged in a Tornado around 3,55 V.
The Tornado will shut off at around 3,55 V but if the Voltage is much higher when removing the battery and measuring the Voltage - another hint for a dead battery.
Good luck
OK, so I've had my SM-P900 for about year now.
Suddenly just this week I am noticing my battery is draining considerably faster than usual and is also taking longer to charge. I was using a custom rom but have now switched back to the default 5.02 version that I installed via Kies.
So after a year do I really need to purchase a new battery?
I keep most everything off all the time and really haven't changed anything or how I use it in quite a few months so was wondering if I actually have to break down and purchase a new battery already.
Cheers
Read the threat : Flickering screen to see how to adjust the tip of battery cable closer in order to make better contact before replace a new battery, within one year the battery should still be good.
If you see the same thing with new battery, probably the battery connector has cracked solder joints and needs to be re soldered, common problem of Samsung tablets, not just only this model.
Lithium-Ion batteries generally last between 300-500 full charge cycles before they start losing power. A year is.. way too soon.
Does it also take longer to charge when the device is turned off completely?
In general a drain increase is caused by a software issue, mobile data or a bug. (or heat/cold.) (The difference between mobile data on and off with a 4G connection is 100-0% in deep sleep in 2 days with LTE, and 80 days in airplane mode.)
Signs of a dying battery include random discharges (it suddenly loses 30-70%, it's at 100 when you unplug and suddenly drops to 30%, or it's dead, you plug it in and turn it back on and it suddenly has 50% charge), random reboots and the device just not turning on at all for no apparent reason.
While it'll loose capacity eventually, that usually doesn't negatively affect the charging speed. (If anything it charges faster because it reaches 100% sooner.)
So assuming that I have a dead battery, is there a good replacement battery out there?
I have tried replacement batteries in the past and have found only subpar batteries on the market.
I bought a new battery on Amazon : 26$
This one is an original battery so at this price you should order one.
And about flickering issue, yes you should resolder connectors or changing the battery might solve this issue too (it worked for me)