I figure that since HTC manufactured the HP iPaq 6515, then it should have a place in this forum. I think this would be a great place to discuss this device.
What do you think?
Fernando
Hello folks:
I am looking for suggestions before I RMA my brand new iPaq 6515. I've owned enough pocket pc phones to know that this unit is probably defective, but I thought I'd give you a shout in case there are easy fixes I am missing:
a) I charged it for 24 hours and the device will not pickup the GPRS signal (the "G" on the top of the screen) unless it is plugged in. If you do a soft reset for instance and are away from a power source, this means you will not be able to connect to GPRS; not good. I tested this with three different SIM cards I have.
b) When you do get a GPRS signal (only when plugged into AC), you cannot navigate into any web pages nor download emails. I fooled around with the connection configurations to no avail.
c) The phone works intermittently and drops calls frequently. It is very difficult to make a phone call while not plugged in.
d) Bluetooth seems to be working OK. I paired with my PC without problems. However, when I tried to use the device as a bluetooth modem, it was unable to connect, GSM-GPRS radio problems mentioned in my notes above.
My sense is that there is an issue with the GSM/GPRS radio and how it gets power; difficult for me to tell. I'd be happy to try any suggestions you may have, but would like to resolve this quickly. I am getting this device for my wife as a christmas gift. I own a JASJAR and that works beautifully, so it is really frustrating to see how I cannot make this device work.
Thanks for any advice you can throw my way.
Fernando
Related
I have a new 8125 from Cingular (I think that's the same as a Wizard), and I tried to pair it with my 2005 Audi A6. The 8125 doesn't even see the car. Has anybode had a similar prolem, and so, is there a solution?
Hi Mike,
Just to let you know I have an Audi A4 with GSM prep and Bluetooth.
It works fine on my MDA Vario (wizard), but was crap on my old Sony Ericsson P900!.
If you look at www.audi-forums.com, a few people there have had Phone/Bluetooth problems with A6's which have been resolved by a firmware update from Audi.
Let me know how you get on.
Markee
My 8125 (TMO carrier) works perfectly with my 2006 A6 which has the technology package. Not only are calls clear and the connection fast, the car sucked all my contacts from my phone. Pretty darn neat.
Thanks for your help. I was able in the meantime to pair the phone with the car. I don't really know what changed, but after a few tries, the phone connected.
I tried to click on Markee's link, but it gave me an "unknown URL". Any alternative way to get to the forum?
@rambo6: My phone now pairs and I can use it, but I don't see the signal strength on the indicator in the car, nor do I get my contacts transferred. I noticed that my phone connects to the car in "handsfree" mode. Is there a setting that I am missing?
mike
HTC Touch Dual (NIKI+NEON) & Fuze problems w/ ATT EP-5632 Bluetooth cordless phone
Hey all,
After searching in google & the XDA built in search for days I'm throwing in the towel & asking for help here. For some reason both my Touch Dual's (NIKI100 & NEON300) have a weird bluetooth 'drop' problem with my AT&T cordless phone which acts like a headset.
I've had an AT&T EP-5632 cordless phone system that links to a cell phone via Bluetooth for about a year & 1/2 now & it has served me well in my home office allowing me to keep my cell plugged in and gives me the ability to use any of my 4 cordless phones to talk on the cell and/or my vonage line. It has had its issues (such as sometimes the Bluetooth link breaks & I have to either turn off & back on Bluetooth on my cell, reboot my cell or power cycle the base) but that happened pretty rarely & wasn't a huge deal. My original phone I used with it was the AT&T 2125 (HTC Tornado) with WM5 & with it I rarely had any problems. After about a year I upgraded to an HTC S710 VOX that came with WM6 and although it fought me hard to do the original link and had the above 'vanishing cell' problem more often than the 2125 overall it was stable enough for me to use it daily making & receiving numerous calls. A few weeks ago I got a Touch Dual (NIKI100) with WM6 thinking I'd prefer a touch screen over full QWERTY to find it lacked the 850 GSM band & 850/1900 3G band AT&T uses but alas it was a new toy so I played with it anyway since we have some 1900 towers around. It too fought to link mostly because the keyboard was defaulting to characters not #'s so I was entering spaces not 0's for the password. lol Once linked I was happily using it with my EP-5632 cordless system via Bluetooth for a few days. One day I was on a cell call & another cell call came in. I was in the middle of a conversation so I let it go to voicemail. BIG mistake! As soon as the ringing stopped I was not able to hear the person I was talking to nor were they able to hear me even though my cordless still showed me as if I was connected (call timer running & not on home screen) & the cell screen showed me connected with call timer running so I quickly picked up the cell phone & they were there! We could talk fine so I hit the OFF button on my cordless to find it hung up my cell call! (So the ATT cordless was still connected via Bluetooth & controlling the cell but the voice portion was no longer being routed to my cordless but rather only on the cell) I quickly dialed the person back with the cordless to find we could not hear each other! I hung up & dialed directly with the cell to find the same thing.. After we tried calling each other a few times unable to hear each other he sent me a text message saying "What happened I can't hear you, can you hear me?" I ended up having to power cycle my Touch Dual to be able to talk to anyone (even directly on the cell not over Bluetooth) & once I did I could use the cordless or my cell AS LONG AS no one called me & I let it go to voicemail. (Tell me that's not odd!) I had already ordered a Touch Dual US NEON300 which arrived that same day so I moved my SIM over & linked it to my ATT to find it does the exact same thing! My 1st thought is that it is either a Touch Dual problem or possibly a WM6.1 problem since my S710 worked & had 6.0 which wasn't as good as my WM5 2125 but worked well enough to use. But both Dual's are worthless with this phone system unfortunately!
I broke down & bought a Fuze thinking that was an AT&T phone (I know, still made by HTC) but I assumed it would be more likely to work figuring AT&T would surely test it with their own AT&T branded cordless phone system, right? WRONG! I found a very strange thing. Even though the Fuze has WM6.1 on it, it does not do the same thing the Dual's do! If a call comes in it doesn't 'disconnect' the audio. WOO! The problem is that if I end a call then try to make or receive a call too quickly after it does the same thing as the Duals where the AT&T cordless initiates or connects the call via the Fuze but I can't talk to them on the AT&T! I have to pick up the Fuze & talk on it.. But unlike the Dual's I don't have to reboot anything to get it working again. I just have to wait like 20 seconds after a call completes before making another call. Inconvenient I know but not nearly as nasty as the problem I was having with the Dual's.
I searched & searched & found various people with odd Bluetooth issues linking with cars that sounded similar and many said the problems started when they upgraded to WM6.1 (either upgraded their ROM or bought a new phone with WM6.1) but some said WM6.0 had issues too although WM6 worked for me. Many people blamed Microsoft's Bluetooth stack, others blamed HTC because it seemed it was only HTC made phones that did it.
So my question is can these problems be fixed?
Perhaps with a patch from Microsoft or HTC?
Maybe by installing a different Bluetooth stack?
Maybe there are Bluetooth registry settings that are different (remember 2125 with WM5 works fine, S710 with SM6 works OK, Touch Dual NIKI100 with WM6 does same freaky thing as Touch Dual NEON300 with WM6.1 where the Fuze with WM6.1 mostly works, at least better than either Dual which makes me think it is NOT the WM version)
Could it be the radio version?
Maybe there is a cooked ROM I might try on either Dual or the Fuze that might fix it?
Maybe the issue has to do with the 2125 & S710 both being smartphones vs the Dual's & Fuze being WM Professional touch screen devices?
Perhaps it is some hardware incompatibility like Bluetooth chipset on the phones?
Sorry so long but I wanted to be thorough in case any of the minor details could help figure out the issue. I realize the problem could very well be a crappy Bluetooth implementation in the EP-5632 but from what I found I am not the only one with odd Bluetooth issues especially with HTC's running WM6.1 so even if someone else doesn't have these particular phones or the same ATT cordless system perhaps something useful to many others will come of this.
Thanks in advance for any input or possible solutions.
Bill
Quick follow up:
I did hard spl on my NIKI100 & flashed with "RUU Nike Radio 1.58.21.23S Modded" & "Tom_Niki_Project_v2.1.3_WWE" ROM & it FIXED the Bluetooth problem with my AT&T EP-5632! That is good news & bad news. The good news is obvious, it is fixed! The bad news is however that I'm selling that phone because it doesn't support the 850 GSM band or AT&T 3G (850/1900 bands). Btw for anyone searching on upgrading their NIKI to add the missing 850 band, of all the radios & ROM's I tried no combination was able to add the 850 GSM band so I assume the hardware is not there as has been noted in various places but not absolute so I had to try. I never expected it to add ATT 3G but like my Touch Diamond (yup I bought one of those last week to see how it worked with my ATT cordless phone & it acts just like my Fuze & I tried a few ROM's) I had hoped it would at least add the GSM band to give me better coverage around here but it was a bust. Guess bad news to anyone else searching on the subject.
So my dilema now is how do I do fix my NEON300? I suspect it was the ROM not the radio that was the fix but I can't say for certain unless I try others & I already put it all back to stock to ship out to the buyer tomorrow. (I had tried "RUU Nike Radio 1.71.09.01K" too but the phone went wacko & I couldn't make calls for long enough to test & didn't try others with this particular rom)
I noticed on the Niki Project thread there are a few mentions of Bluetooth changes:
* Bluetooth FTP 1.2.33281.9 Diamond [NEW]
* Bluetooth 1.6.5.0 Diamond [NEW]
* Bluetooth patch included
* Best Bluetooth A2DP settings
* Bluetooth DUN support
I suspect one of those is the magic fix that I am hoping I can apply whatever that was to my NEON300.. I'm hoping someone involved with the Niki Project can shed some light on what those updates are or do but perhaps I need to ask in that thread instead.
I'm also interested to hear back from anyone else who is having Bluetooth issues with the Dual (such as integration with cars I read so much about) to see if this radio/rom combo solves their problems or not.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
So my daughters iPod Touch 5 is just over a month out of warranty and decides to develop a major WiFi issue. It can detect all WiFi signals just fine and at the standard distances, but it will only connect if it's only inches away from the WiFi source. This tells me there is a TX problem, either software or hardware, though I'm leaning toward hardware at this point. Bluetooth is working fine.
The device has been reset and restored countless times and it just updated to iOS 7.1 with no change in WiFi behavior. I posted a thread on the official apple support forum but it got deleted because that place is run by a bunch of communist tyrants that won't stand for any negative opinions about their brand. I tried taking it to the "genius" bar, but my blood pressure started to rapidly rise after standing at the empty counter for 10 minutes while I watched multiple employees walking around the store playing with demo units. I decided to leave for the safety of myself and the employees.
Anyway, has anyone else heard of this exact issue? I know the WiFi IC in these (and the iPhone) are prone to going bad, but that usually results in the greyed out WiFi situation. I wanted to believe it was maybe as simple as the solder point for the TX signal being broken, but the IC isn't BGA like I thought it would be. I have a hot air station and can replace it if I have to, but it's not something I'm looking forward too. It also seems impossible to find the Murata 339S0171 in the US for some odd reason.
Never posted here before, but I have a pretty specific situation and have heard this is the place to find the experts.
I just switched from a Verizon Samsung Galaxy S3 to a Verizon Motorola Droid Turbo 64gb. I have a Samsung SCS-2U01 Network Extender through Verizon because I am in a strange dead pocket for their network, as in I can barely get 1-3 bars of 1x normally and phones like to drop calls at my house. So, with my GS3 and my wife's Note 3, everything was fine and dandy, phones connect when you walk in the house, and stay connected.
When I just switched to the Droid Turbo, the phone connects to the Network Extender when I walk into the house (shows the little "house" emblem), but as soon as some Wi-Fi action takes place (which it automatically connects to as well), the little house emblem disappears, and I appear to not be on the Network Extender anymore. By the way, I do have the Extender configured via the website to allow our two numbers only to connect. Strangely, when I call #48 it says I AM connected.... weird.
When checking in the phone settings, I am in fact not connected anymore, and have -85 to -90 dBmW of 1x signal.
When I turn the Wi-Fi off, it reconnects to the Extender and I have -75dBmW of 3G and the house emblem appears again.
When I try to pull in an MMS message, it fails (having only 1x signal) and the phone sits there just getting hot, and PLOWING through battery.
I have seen a post on here about a similar issue that links the problem to Motorola's use of a single antenna for Wi-Fi and cell network. So, I understand the root of the issue being Motorala's decision to use a single radio chip.
My question is: is there another solution? Is there a way to force a sustained connection? Do I just need to get a different phone with two separate chips? The Samsung seem to handle it well, maybe the LG G3? Verizon seems stumped about this one, and will let me exchange until Jan 15. I figured I would consult here first.
I'm happy to provide any more info.
JR
Typically when on Stable wifi, Android does indeed turn off Cell Radio for Data connection so as to save Battery. However, in your case, being one common radio makes a double whammy. The phone must turn off Data in order to get on WiFi.
So in your case, although the phone's display won't show it, you still have got bars that'd let you make or receive calls while connected to WiFi. As to Texts, it could be deal breaker for you. I do believe Verizon needs to have Data Connection On in order to receive MMS or texts. In which case, this device is no good, especially considering the dead zone you are in. You *could* switch to Google Voice to send and receive texts but that's a workaround to be honest.
Last but not the least,please review Wi-Fi issue you might want to post there and get a second opinion from one of the Experts for your device.
Hi everyone,
I have recently cracked my screen and replaced it myself using youtube tutorials. I have (somehow) completed the task although I had many problems with the two side cables (black and white antenna cables, I hope you know what I mean as I don't know their proper names). Specifically, I wasn't able to slide them down the channels intended for that and at the same time I wasn't able to connect them properly in the jacks were they need to be plugged in. I thought I have somehow did it but it seems I did not do it properly as I do have frequent ups and downs with the network signal, I lose it constantly in places where I used to have full network signal and I can't reach LTE at all, there's no connection at all when switched to LTE. There's signal only when 3G is ticked in settings and internet signal remains to E, rarely if ever moves to H.
At the same time, Wi-Fi is good although I feel it worked better previously, but that can only be my imagination working.
So, I think it has something to do with those cables, as those were my main issue during reassembly. Is there any advice anyone can give me. They don't seem broken, but I can't fit them in the channels and in the jacks properly. Would it work if I put something like a sticky paper in the channels to hold the cables down. Also, is there any trick for connecting them in the jacks or I just need to be precise?
Or, is the problem something completely different?
Any advice would be much appreciated as my phone is rather new and I absolutely love it.
Thanks in advance
Those mini-coaxial sockets can be a bit harder to push in at times - just get a pair of good quality tweezers , get a good grip on the connector and push it down with some other tool. I can guarantee it is going to go in . If they don't make good contact you are either going to get intermitent network , or a very week network signal .