I was wondering if there were any super stripped down/lightweight ROM's... I just reset my phone to factory conditions and then rerooted it roughly two hours ago, I'm not using the droidx as my cellphone right now but I'd like to use it for network setup and other uses similar to that (I work in IT and it would be easier to carry around than a laptop)
My issue is that most of the themes center around using cell service, honestly I could care less about cell service since its not connected to the network... Is there any way to remove effectively every app except for those that would work over wifi/offline?
If so, are there any really lightweight themes that I could use to strip it down and go from there or would you recommend I just strip it down from stock?... I know this seems like a bit of a project but I'm up for it and I really have nothing to lose with this phone since its not my primary phone or anything... Effectively I want to turn my droidx into an ultraportable/ultralightweight/fast tablet/alarm clock (please dont hate me :3)
Went with fission 2.6.1 However I'm curious, I know that generally speaking removing applications is ill advised, I was wondering if theres a viable way to remove all of the phone features or to effectively turn off the phone features permanently (or semi permanently)
I realised the best way to phrase what I want is to run my droid x like a tablet... If only I could get honeycomb to run on it hahahaha
But yeah, questions would be, any way to deactivate all the connection to verizon stuff? (because its not connected to Verizon)
You can use titanium backup and freeze all the apps you do not want running or the other method is to use root explorer and rename what you don't want to use to .bak instead of it being .apk
hope this helps answer your question
not sure if airplane mode kills the wifi, but it kills the cell radio. that may help.
if youre comfortable sbfing you can try using 7zip to remove things and install the rom, but id figure that pretty likely to cause a brick/sbf if youre not careful. id be more inclined to use the free version of titanium and flat back up/uninstall anything unwanted and see how that goes.
i should note my experience on 261 with just uninstalling stuff i dont want is pretty high, its my daily runner; but not with uninstalling things relative to the phone (of course).
ive been looking at getting a color screen nook from best buy; wifi, small and portable and suposedly hackable/rootable to run a 250 e reader in to a full function tablet.
I want to create an "un-steal-able" phone.
Of course this is impossible, but I want to make it as difficult as possible for thieves to get away with it, and as easy as possible for me to find it.
Assumptions:
Phone has available call and text messaging service.
Phone has internet capabilities and "permanent" Internet access. (We will consider 2G, 3G, or 4G cellular access with a data plan to be permanent. Depending on an open WiFi network to be available at all times is unreliable).
Phone is on and has some charge in its battery. (If the phone is off, we can't do anything).
Phone has an accurate GPS receiver.
Requirements:
Software that relays GPS coordinates via an Internet connection. As a backup for when there is no cellular data signal, software that relay GPS coordinates via SMS
Software cannot be disabled or removed without authentication.
GPS on phone cannot be turned off without authentication (alternative: remote activation of GPS receiver via Internet or SMS)
Cellular data and/or WiFi cannot be turned off without authentication (alternative: remote activation of cellular data via SMS)
Where GPS signal can be used for macro location (within 10 to 30 meters), there must be some method of micro location (within a few feet).
Phone cannot be powered off via any button press, on-screen menu, or removal of battery
Phone cannot be wiped by on-screen menu or by computer cable connection
Now I have approached this solution from two starting points: the iPhone running iOS, or an Android-based smartphone. Both have different advantages and technical details. Let's look at how we can meet each of these requirements one by one.
iOS solution:
Unfortunately, if your iPhone is not jailbroken, your choices are not so great. But FindMyiPhone does do the basic job of relaying GPS coordinates. For a jailbroken iPhone, iCaughtu seems to be the best of the bunch from the research I have done and gives you a bunch of cool anti-theft features.
and
Using the options under Settings -> General -> Restrictions, you can disallow users from deleting apps AND from turning off location services. Of course, you can accomplish something similar by simple setting a password to access your phone. Unfortunately I haven't yet seen any program that allows you to remotely activate the GPS receiver on an iPhone.
Unfortunately I don't think there is anyway to prevent a thief from disabling your cellular connection other than setting a password on the whole phone. This has its advantages and disadvantages.* Similarly, I don't see any way to remotely activate the Cellular Data on an iPhone via SMS.
This is where things start to get more complex and we need to start thinking of actually modding the phone. So far the best RF tracking solution I have found (in terms of size, cost, and effectiveness) is a cheap chinese-made product that I picked up in Asia and cannot find a link to. This one is very similar http://www.amazon.com/Loc8tor-LTD-Loc8torLite-LOC8TOR-Lite/dp/B0012GMDC4/ but the reviews are meh. It is RF-based but does not really give any directional information. Once you are close to the RF transmitter (using the GPS coordinates), you can use the RF receiver to basically play a little game of hot and cold and walk in different directions all while watching if the signal gets stronger or weaker. I've done two real world field test with the similar device and was able to successfully find a purposely concealed bag in a slum twice.
But how do we get this into the phone? If you disassemble the transmitter, it is a very small circuit board, but most phones these days are already packed to the brim. Additionally, these units need power, so you would need to solder it into the phone's power system.
For the iPhone, concerns about a battery-based shutdown are reduced by its "sealed" battery compartment. Of course, with the right tools, someone can get to the battery. But this is not likely to happen quickly and will likely occur in a specific home or shop, from which we can get coordinate data. We only need to delay the thieves long enough to track them. The bad news is that preventing an iPhone from being shutdown via button press is much more difficult. Even with a lockscreen password, anyone can turn off an iPhone with a long power/sleep button press. I found a mod on Cydia that required a password before any shutdown, but it seemed it was only compatible with iOS 5 and I am running iOS 6.
This is the most challenging problem, as the most common method for any experienced phone thief to avoid detection is simply to power off the phone (or disable internet/3G) and as quickly as possible get to a computer and perform a complete wipe using any number of computer programs. A password on the phone can prevent access to the menu options for resetting factory default, but very little can prevent a thief from physically connecting the phone to a computer and wiping it.
Again I turn to physical modding. Would it be possible to modify the iPhone connector in such a way that the pins for power and charging would still work, but the pins for a data connection would require a specially modified cable to conect to the computer? Once my phone is through its initial setup and/or, most anything I need to do as far as data can be accomplished via WiFi. If needed, I would keep my special data cable at my home only and never take it out. But losing the ability to charge from any iPhone cable would be too debilitating to daily usage.
So I ask the experts: how can I improve on or solve these ideas? Is there software out there that I don't know about, either on the App Store or the Cydia Store? Are there ways to remotely control the iPhone's wireless and GPS functions via text? There should be. Any ideas on incorporating a tiny RF transmitter into the iPhone? Is there any way to prevent an iPhone from being shut down via the sleep button? Is there anyway to sabotage the lightning connector in an intelligent way to prevent a computer-based wipe?
*Advantages and Disadvantage of a phone-wide password. Honestly, I would rather not have a lockscreen password on my phone. I'm not a privacy freak and I don't care if a thief sees my pictures of e-mails or Facebook. If my phone is stolen, I'm hoping it is stolen by an idiot and that they WON'T try to wipe the phone. None of my solutions are foolproof. Everything in here is about delaying the thief long enough to track them. If an idiot steals a phone without a password, he MIGHT just use it as is. But if an idiot steals a phone and can't doing ANYTHING with it, he is going to take it to someone who will be smart enough to wipe it MUCH SOONER. Of course, the disadvantage is a loss of privacy, but iCaughtu has a cool solution for that too.
Android solution:
Android phones are much easier to root, and software solutions exist that will work reasonably well even for nonrooted phones. The best software I have seen is Avast! Anti-theft (part of Mobile Security), AndroidLost, and Cerebrus. All of these can report GPS coordinates, and with Avast! at least, you can also see coordinate history online and actually follow the path of your phone through the minutes, hours, and/or days. AndroidLost can report GPS coordinates online OR via SMS!
,
and
Avast! cannot be removed without a pin code. It can also prevent the user from during off Cellular Data and GPS. AndroidLost can be used to activate WiFi, Cellular Data and/or GPS via internet command OR via SMS. There are a ton of other internet-based and SMS commands in AndroidLost as well. Even without an active lockscreen password, a thief would be powerless to disable communication between the tracking software and you. In this department, Android truly outshines the iOS solution.
Getting an RF tracker into an Android-based phone has the same challenges as an iPhone.
I haven't found ANY glimmer of hope for a mode to disable shutdown via a long-button-press on Android. At least I found one mod for iPhone, even if it was the wrong iOS version. This is a huge gap in the goal of building an "unstealable" phone for both operating systems. As for the battery: Android phones come in many flavors. Many have removable batteries, so if you want to make life more difficult for thieves you'll have to limit yourself to a phone with a "sealed" battery compartment such as the HTC One.
A computer-based wipe via USB cable presents the same challenges as an iPhone EXCEPT that we're dealing with a more standard interface so that MIGHT make modding an easier task. Is there any way to make the microUSB jack more "proprietary" so that any normal USB cable can charge it but only a specially one can transmit data?
There is one other detailed I am interested in, but which is, I believe, currently impossible since it would require modifications to the lowest level of the phone's software, and that would be an auto-on feature. If the phone's battery dies for any reason (or any other shutdown that is not user-initiated), I would love for the phone to automatically power back on whenever it receives a new power source (either being plugged into the wall or getting a fresh battery).
Why am I so interested in doing this? I live in a third-world country and I travel to many other third-world countries. For 3 years, I guess I had good luck, but in the past year I have had three phones and a laptop stolen from me on the street and I have been punched in the face. Several of my friends have also had phones stolen during that time, and one friend was even kidnapped and robbed. Maybe crime is getting worse or maybe it is just coincidence. I have tried to be more careful each time, but one should not live life in fear or blame ones carelessness alone. It is time to fight back. Money, time, memories, self-respect, and peace of mind have been taken away from me and from people I care about. These thieves bear the real responsibility for these crimes. And the police and government here is largely unwilling, incapable, uncaring, and/or corrupt. Maybe I can help others as well.
Thanks for your suggestions and input.
Your thoughts are well expressed.
Hopefully something is coming fast to consumers.:good:
OK, so I know M7 isn't the latest CM build, but it's the latest one without issues with GPS, so that's what I'm on since I use GPS a lot.
So last week I replaced my home router. This of course means reconfiguring all the wifi devices around the house, including my wifi thermostat. The unique thing about the thermostat is that to configure it, you connect a laptop/phone/tablet to the thermostat's ad-hoc wifi network, tell it which infrastructure ssid to connect to, verify a pin from the thermostat's screen (so nobody can hijack your t-stat from outside the house), and that's it.
thing is, when you use Cyanogenmod (at least on the relay) to connect to an adhoc network, it breaks wifi. what happens is you can't connect to any other wifi networks, and can't even scan to see available networks till you reboot. sometimes it doesn't work even after a reboot. strangely, the tethering/hotspot still works fine. you just can't connect the phone to a hotspot whether it's at home or work or anywhere.
i'd been having other issues and general slowness with the phone, so i decided to backup a few apps with TiBu and do a factory reset. that worked... till i tried connecting to the thermostat again, and it broke wifi completely this time.
solution? go to /data/misc/wifi/ and rename wpa_supplicant.conf to wpa_supplicant.conf.old (or whatever, as long as it's a different name) and reboot. the system will automatically create a new conf file. boom - wifi fixed.
obviously this requires root, but that's not an issue in CM. I doubt it matters, but i used ES file explorer since it's got a good root filesystem browser and mounting / or system as RW is a simple matter of a checkbox in the settings.
when i compared the newly created wpa_supplicant.conf with the one i'd renamed (.old) the only real difference i could see was the saved networks at the bottom. so you might be able to get away with simply deleting the offending network={ blah blah } section instead of completely renaming the conf file. the advantage here would be if you have a bunch of saved networks that you don't want to get rid of, it will keep those saved networks. the conf file is a plaintext file so it's easy enough to understand what you're looking at, and modify appropriately.
MODS: I apologize if this is in the wrong forum. I figured since it probably only applies to CM, I should post it in the dev forum rather than the general one. If it needs to be moved, I don't be offended.
Gibson99 said:
OK, so I know M7 isn't the latest CM build, but it's the latest one without issues with GPS, so that's what I'm on since I use GPS a lot.
So last week I replaced my home router. This of course means reconfiguring all the wifi devices around the house, including my wifi thermostat. The unique thing about the thermostat is that to configure it, you connect a laptop/phone/tablet to the thermostat's ad-hoc wifi network, tell it which infrastructure ssid to connect to, verify a pin from the thermostat's screen (so nobody can hijack your t-stat from outside the house), and that's it.
thing is, when you use Cyanogenmod (at least on the relay) to connect to an adhoc network, it breaks wifi. what happens is you can't connect to any other wifi networks, and can't even scan to see available networks till you reboot. sometimes it doesn't work even after a reboot. strangely, the tethering/hotspot still works fine. you just can't connect the phone to a hotspot whether it's at home or work or anywhere.
i'd been having other issues and general slowness with the phone, so i decided to backup a few apps with TiBu and do a factory reset. that worked... till i tried connecting to the thermostat again, and it broke wifi completely this time.
solution? go to /data/misc/wifi/ and rename wpa_supplicant.conf to wpa_supplicant.conf.old (or whatever, as long as it's a different name) and reboot. the system will automatically create a new conf file. boom - wifi fixed.
obviously this requires root, but that's not an issue in CM. I doubt it matters, but i used ES file explorer since it's got a good root filesystem browser and mounting / or system as RW is a simple matter of a checkbox in the settings.
when i compared the newly created wpa_supplicant.conf with the one i'd renamed (.old) the only real difference i could see was the saved networks at the bottom. so you might be able to get away with simply deleting the offending network={ blah blah } section instead of completely renaming the conf file. the advantage here would be if you have a bunch of saved networks that you don't want to get rid of, it will keep those saved networks. the conf file is a plaintext file so it's easy enough to understand what you're looking at, and modify appropriately.
MODS: I apologize if this is in the wrong forum. I figured since it probably only applies to CM, I should post it in the dev forum rather than the general one. If it needs to be moved, I don't be offended.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does belong in q&a...but my lollipop validus has working gps
REV3NT3CH said:
It does belong in q&a...but my lollipop validus has working gps
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Click to collapse
As does FatToad. However, I do know that the privacy bit in the GPS can be flipped with the drivers we're using in FT. There's an old thread with a post from nard about how to fix that.
Magamo said:
As does FatToad. However, I do know that the privacy bit in the GPS can be flipped with the drivers we're using in FT. There's an old thread with a post from nard about how to fix that.
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Do you understand more about this "privacy bit", what call in the API flips it, or can give me any other pointers about it? The poster previous to you indicates that GPS works with M7. I thought I had it working with M8, but can't really guarantee that, any more. The post from nard was quite an onerous process, including what looked like reflashing the baseband.
It seems to me that if we really understood this problem, the fix would be quite simple, and could be done by a root-access app. I've done more digging, and see that it seems to be common to many models of Samsung Galaxy phones, and some of the fixes involve doing potentially horrible things to the NVRAM. (like clearing it completely - what could possibly go wrong?)
It seems that the GPS is done in the baseband processor, along with the other radio stuff, but so far I haven't been able to find it. The transceiver chip is just a transceiver, no baseband processor. It looks like the baseband processor might be on the Snapdragon main processor chip, though they don't enumerate it well. In addition they mention a "gpsOne engine" without describing exactly what it is.
I'm still relatively ignorant about Android, a year after getting one. (not enough time) I'm better versed on hardware, but this problem seems to be in the cracks between.
Come to think of it, a simple question... Is there documentation on the communications between Android and the baseband processor?
Gibson99 said:
OK, so I know M7 isn't the latest CM build, but it's the latest one without issues with GPS, so that's what I'm on since I use GPS a lot.
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I just took my wife's phone outside and tested it. GPS works on M8 from last summer, as does wifi. AFAIK the only thing that doesn't work on M8 is the video camera. (Stills on the camera work.)
This was an older phone than mine, purchased after mine. With mine I didn't need the radio or bootloader updates, my wife's did. I bought the phone for her, used it briefly with my PureTalkUSA SIM card to make sure it was really unlocked. Then I put CM11 on it.
phred14 said:
I just took my wife's phone outside and tested it. GPS works on M8 from last summer, as does wifi. AFAIK the only thing that doesn't work on M8 is the video camera. (Stills on the camera work.)
This was an older phone than mine, purchased after mine. With mine I didn't need the radio or bootloader updates, my wife's did. I bought the phone for her, used it briefly with my PureTalkUSA SIM card to make sure it was really unlocked. Then I put CM11 on it.
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no idea how old mine actually is; i bought it "like new" from a tmobile reseller here in town and i actually use tmobile for service.
right now i'm on fattoad and once i stepped down my paranoia (i turned on privacy guard for everything including all system apps. hint: don't do that ) it seems good so far. nova launcher has an issue with flickering or disappearing icons, and everything is huge (i need to adjust the dpi) but so far no issues with gps or wifi (though i havent needed to connect to an adhoc network yet).
Do be careful with Privacy Guard. I didn't mention, but although Privacy Guard out of the box tends to make it so that most system apps are unable to be tuned, TeamApexQ likes the option of being able to tune everything in that regard, so we removed the safeguard. (For example, when PG was first ported to CM12, you could tune the settings of the 'Settings' app. Then at our next internal testing build, it was suddenly coming up empty, because CM made a change to exclude tuning for it. We restored full capability because we liked it. But that does mean you can more easily 'shoot yourself in the foot'.
Magamo said:
Do be careful with Privacy Guard. I didn't mention, but although Privacy Guard out of the box tends to make it so that most system apps are unable to be tuned, TeamApexQ likes the option of being able to tune everything in that regard, so we removed the safeguard. (For example, when PG was first ported to CM12, you could tune the settings of the 'Settings' app. Then at our next internal testing build, it was suddenly coming up empty, because CM made a change to exclude tuning for it. We restored full capability because we liked it. But that does mean you can more easily 'shoot yourself in the foot'.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've recently begun to wonder if Privacy Guard might be partially responsible for reduced battery life. I'm under the impression that it lies to apps, providing false information when they have insufficient authority for the real information. Some of those permissions in Privacy Guard are to turn radios on and off. If an app thinks it's turned a radio on, and is trying to communicate based on faked (Really, it's going to look like a failure, at this point.) returns, it may spend more time continuing to try instead of just staying asleep. My battery life comes an goes, but I've noticed that on a "bad day" there are quite a few wakeups in the middle of nowhen, when the phone was sitting there in airplane mode with all radios off.
Of course I may be all wet on this - radio control may be one area where it can say, "You're in Airplane Mode, no program can turn the radio on."
good theory, and like you said, it depends on the app and how pg implements each block.
personally i'm having great battery life in L. i have a 5000mah battery, but usually by this point in the day i'm at about 60%. right now i'm still at 83%. i like how it projects your estimated remaining battery time. first time i looked at the battery chart, i lol'd - it was projecting 4.5 days before it died. i can probably get 2 no sweat even with regular usage, but i'd have to turn off sync and really cut back to make it 4 days.
I've had very good results with some simple rules with Privacy Guard. Generally the only thing I've turned off is the ability for Google Play Services and the Google App (Google Now) to wake up my device and to keep it awake. With those turned off, my battery life has gotten to be pretty damned nice... Though it makes Google Play Services FC once maybe every 24 hours. It restarts just fine, no harm no foul.
My battery life seems to be "bimodal". It either barely makes it 24 hours - basically needs recharging every night, or it lasts on the order of three or four days on a charge.
It seems to be somehow wifi-related, if I were guessing, and in an odd way. If wifi is largely off, but occasionally on, the battery life seems shorter. After wifi has been left off for "a while" (quantity not yet determined) it seems to go into long-battery-life mode. If I keep wifi largely on, and occasionally off (basically between known/trusted wifi places) the battery life comes out somewhere in between, consistent with wifi itself taking some power.
It's been really tough to detect any sort of pattern, but this is the best I've been able to come up with so far. I haven't done rigorous testing, or at least attempts at rigor so far have yielded inconsistent results. I've looked at what the Settings->Battery has available for power diagnostics, and one thing I noted was a lot of spurious wakeups when all radios were turned off. That's what led me to tentatively finger Privacy Guard.
I just saw the setting to show "built-in" apps on PG. I see two different entries for google.services and google.services.framework. The former has scads of wakeups - thanks for the tip. The latter has many, but a much smaller number. Did you block wakeups for both? I presume "built-in" are also "system" that others have said shouldn't be bulk-denied in PG. Are there guidelines anywhere about which are OK, which are useful, etc? (Like this case, and perhaps battery life.)
phred14 said:
My battery life seems to be "bimodal". It either barely makes it 24 hours - basically needs recharging every night, or it lasts on the order of three or four days on a charge.
It seems to be somehow wifi-related, if I were guessing, and in an odd way. If wifi is largely off, but occasionally on, the battery life seems shorter. After wifi has been left off for "a while" (quantity not yet determined) it seems to go into long-battery-life mode. If I keep wifi largely on, and occasionally off (basically between known/trusted wifi places) the battery life comes out somewhere in between, consistent with wifi itself taking some power.
It's been really tough to detect any sort of pattern, but this is the best I've been able to come up with so far. I haven't done rigorous testing, or at least attempts at rigor so far have yielded inconsistent results. I've looked at what the Settings->Battery has available for power diagnostics, and one thing I noted was a lot of spurious wakeups when all radios were turned off. That's what led me to tentatively finger Privacy Guard.
I just saw the setting to show "built-in" apps on PG. I see two different entries for google.services and google.services.framework. The former has scads of wakeups - thanks for the tip. The latter has many, but a much smaller number. Did you block wakeups for both? I presume "built-in" are also "system" that others have said shouldn't be bulk-denied in PG. Are there guidelines anywhere about which are OK, which are useful, etc? (Like this case, and perhaps battery life.)
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Click to collapse
It's difficult to give tips for this, because everyones' usage is different. Get 'WakeLock Detector' and keep an eye on that when your power drain seems more intense. Disable things that make sense to disable based on that.
I know this isn't really the topic, but just because you get a new router doesn't mean you have to reconfigure everything. Why couldn't you just configure the new router with the SSID and password from the old one?
slartibartfast42 said:
I know this isn't really the topic, but just because you get a new router doesn't mean you have to reconfigure everything. Why couldn't you just configure the new router with the SSID and password from the old one?
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believe me, i tried that. it's stupidly tedious to enter a long keyphrase via the remote control on our tivos and only slightly less tedious on the roku (its remote is much more responsive). laptops and phones aren't as bad since they have keyboards. apparently the devices are smart enough to notice a different MAC behind the BSSID. which if you think about it, is actually a GOOD thing in terms of security, since it makes spoofing a little more difficult. granted, you'd also have to know the wpa key to successfully spoof, but it's a simple check to implement for security's sake, and i'm glad they did.
by the way, do you like fjords?
Magamo said:
It's difficult to give tips for this, because everyones' usage is different. Get 'WakeLock Detector' and keep an eye on that when your power drain seems more intense. Disable things that make sense to disable based on that.
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Click to collapse
"Wakelock Detector" has certainly been enlightening. "Google Fit", which makes sense, once you think about it. But the other aspect that was even more important, I just happened to see when one of the other forums popped up on some sort of search result or other.
You have to boot your Android device on battery. If the kernel starts up on charger, it never gets into the deepest power-saving states. When I first started using Wakelock Detector, my phone showed up as being awake something like 97% of the time. Google Fit was the biggest user, but not that big. After seeing that advice I've been careful to boot on battery, and now most of the time is spent asleep. Google Fit still uses wakes as much, but when it's not, the phone is really sleeping. My normal battery life has moved out to two or three days, sometimes into a fourth. As long as I consider Google Fit worth having around, this battery life is good enough for me - there is always a decent window to recharge.
phred14 said:
You have to boot your Android device on battery. If the kernel starts up on charger, it never gets into the deepest power-saving states.
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Click to collapse
So much for that theory. A day or two back, after good battery life since this post, I noticed it draining faster. Today I looked, and sure enough, it's not going into deep sleep. I tried rebooting with all four states of wifi and cell service, and nothing has gotten deep sleep back. I think I'm going to try charging tonight, booting while charging, then rebooting after disconnecting. It would be good to have an exact and repeatable set of circumstances that cause both good and bad battery life.
Hi everyone
Since the latest couple of updates my oneplus 6 has started locking every time it is connecting to something via bluetooth near field.
The thing is that when shopping in the local grocery store, i can connect a app with the shop to get points and offers. The way you do this is by linking the app via a bluetooth near communication.
Though when i try to do this, my phone just locks, over and over. Does anyone have a explanation to this, or am i just screwed?
Thank you in advantage
I'm not sure I totally understand. Bluetooth and near field communication (NFC) are 2 different things. There is no Bluetooth near field.
But... Either way, if you're having issues that either one reboots your phone I would recommend flashing the full ROM to make sure nothing was corrupt from the update or even back up all of your data and do a reset. I'm having no such issues with either Bluetooth or NFC.
Eric214 said:
I'm not sure I totally understand. Bluetooth and near field communication (NFC) are 2 different things. There is no Bluetooth near field.
But... Either way, if you're having issues that either one reboots your phone I would recommend flashing the full ROM to make sure nothing was corrupt from the update or even back up all of your data and do a reset. I'm having no such issues with either Bluetooth or NFC.
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Okay, sorry about that. It is bluetooth, but it is some kind of low power version, that works a little like nfc, only a couple of centimeters of range
That sounds like NFC but either way it sounds like something corrupt, maybe from the update. If you know how to reflash the update you're on, I would do that.
It's BTLE Bluetooth Low Energy, beacons recognized by that shop app and vice versa.
Contact the shop"s support... Perhaps the action initiated by the app causes the problem (especially if it does not happen elsewhere)